Toledo

Exploring Toledo, Spain: The City of Three Cultures

Toledo, Spain is an enriching and culturally intense city about 40 minutes by train south of Madrid. The proximity to Madrid makes it a great day trip. Toledo is known as “The City of the Three Cultures,” because Christians, Muslims, and Jews lived and co-existed together for centuries. It was also the capital of Spain up until the 1560s when Felipe II moved his court from Toledo to the military outpost of Madrid due to its lack ties with other established nonroyal power.

There are many reasons to visit Toledo, but the architecture, ancient history, and blend of three cultures was more than enough to compel me to add it to my summer trip, which also included Madrid, Barcelona, and Girona. Toledo isn’t a small town, but the walkability and narrow cobblestone alleys will make you feel like you have discovered a hidden gem.

I was there in June and, yes, it was hot. There is a decent amount of shade to be found when you aren’t inside one of the many breathtaking historical religious sites. That being said, sunglasses, hats, SPF, and water bottles are imperative during the summer months.

In this post, I will share my journal of the time I spent visiting the city of Toledo with my two teenaged sons. The fact that I was traveling with teens did not alter my itinerary at all. The places we visited were so incredible, so interesting, they were enthralled just as much as I was the entire time.

Getting there: We took the train from Madrid Station (Puerta de Atocha) to Toledo. Schedules and tickets can be purchased here. The cost of a round trip ticket was around 28 Euro (per adult).

Above photo: Toledo Train Station

When traveling abroad, I have usually researched my destination so thoroughly, that I do not need to bring any guidebooks with me. Toledo is one place where I really would recommend bringing a pocket guide and/or map with you due to the sheer number of attractions to see within a rather compact area. One day is sufficient to see a list of sites and museums. However, if you are especially interested in history, architecture, or are a photographer, you may want to plan an overnight stay because this place is truly a feast for all the above.

The main train station in Toledo is to the east of the city, separated by the winding Tagus River. The train station itself is really pretty and you will immediately know you’ve gotten off at the right stop. Right outside the station, tour operators are there to greet the tourists and offer their services. We decided to take the Hop-on Hop-off Bus Tour. I know these bus rides are so touristy, but I find them incredibly helpful in getting the lay of the land before venturing out on foot. They are also often narrated by audio-guide, which can be very informative. My kids like them because less walking:)

Above photos: Hop On Hop Off Bus Tour Toledo

We got off the bus for a brief stop at Mirador del Valle to take in the epic views. The viewpoint can also be reached by walking from the train station (its about 1.2 miles). This is the best place to take panoramic photographs of the city with its notable landmarks defining the skyline.

Above photos: Views of Toledo from Mirador del Valle

We got back on the bus for just another stop or two (to be resumed later), and we made our way across the Tagus River via the Puente de San Martín, a medieval bridge with five arches. It is one of the two original bridges that provided access to the city. The other one is the Alcantara Bridge, which we passed on our way to before stopping at Mirador del Valle.

Above photo: Puente de San Martín

The Alcantara Bridge is a 2,000 year old Roman structure that was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest in 1924. It’s amazing how it has withstood the test of time and is still nearly completely intact. On the other side of the bridge, there is a gate tower that was used to control access to the city and collect taxes.

Once across Puente de San Martín, the path naturally leads you up the street of Bajada San Martín. Before turning right at Pl. de San Juan de los Reyes, be sure to look left to see the Puerta Del Cambrón. This drive-thru city gate has gone through a couple reconstructions, the most recent being in the late 1500s. It was the site of some pretty horrific events during the Spanish Civil War, but is currently a very pretty pass-through that looks a bit like a castle.

Above photos: Walking through the Puente de San Martín Gate (left) and Puerta Del Cambrón (right)

Our first major attraction within the city was the Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes. This Isabelline style Franciscan monastery was built in the 14th century. The church is in the form of a Latin Cross and the decoration is stunning.

The two-tiered cloister of the monastery has beautiful arches and symmetry surrounding a small, center garden. There are details everywhere you look, from the Mudéjar ceiling to the motifs of the Catholic monarchs and figures of saints. This is a really interesting place to see the blended influence of Islam and Christianity.

Above photos: Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes

Continuing the walk down Callle de los Reyes Católicos, the remains of the Sofer Synagogue can be seen on the left. It dates to the 12th or 13th century, but was likely destroyed a couple hundred years later. It had been lost and forgotten for centuries, until the remains were discovered and excavated in 2011.

The Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca is just steps away and this is a must-see. While humble and inconspicuous from the outside, the interior is quite remarkable with horseshoe-shaped arches and columns. The synagogue was built in the 13th century for the Jews. However, it went through changes in purpose and use, including a Christian temple and military barracks. It was finally recovered as an artistic and historical monument in the mid-19th century.

Above photos: Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca

There are a few other notable places in the area to stop after Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca, including the Victorio Macho Museum, Casa del Judío, and Iglesia de Santo Tomé. Of course, the number of places you see will entirely depend on the amount of time you have and your personal interest. For us, our next stop was at Iglesia del Salvador, which was about an 8-minute walk west.

Iglesia del Salvador is one of the smaller churches in Toledo. It has a really interesting interior because it is actually the 4th religious building to occupy the site. A previous mosque, expansion of a mosque, and a Visigothic building preceded the Christian construction. The Church kept and re-used some of the elements of the previous architecture. Here again, you are able to experience the blend of history, cultures, and artistic styles in a single building. It’s fascinating!

Above photos: Iglesia del Salvador

The Cathothic churches Iglesia de San Bartolomé and Iglesia Mozárabe de San Sebastián, along with the convents Agustinas Ermitañas Convento Santa Ursula and Antiguo Convento de Jerónimas are just to the south of Iglesia del Salvador. It seems almost impossible to create an exhaustive list of everything there is to see, let alone to visit each of them. Sadly, we couldn’t make it to these either.

Above photo: Toledo City Hall

We moved on to Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada de Toledo, the main Roman Catholic cathedral at the center of Toledo. First, at the front part of the cathedral is Puerta de los Leones, which translates to Portal of the Lions. This is not used as an entrance, but it is nice to visit to see the architecture and ornate carvings.

Above photos: Puerta de los Leones at Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada de Toledo

The entrance to the cathedral is on the opposite side at Puerta del Reloj on Calle Chapinería.

Above photo: Puerta del Reloj at Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada de Toledo

The cathedral is the seat of the Metropolitan Archdiocese of Toledo and is one of the most heavily visited tourist attractions in Toledo. Bring an extra breath because yours will be taken away. The medieval Gothic architecture and artwork inside will leave you mesmerized. The main alterpiece is a preview of heaven.

Above photos: Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada de Toledo

Be sure to check your watch when leaving the cathedral because it is super easy to lose track of time. From there you can decide whether to walk north to see the Cuevas de Hércules (an archeological site), Convento de Santo Domingo El Antiguo (monastery), Iglesia de los Jesuitas (church), Ermita “Mezquita” del Cristo de la Luz (another church) — OR you can spin to the east towards Plaza de Zocodover and the Alcázar de Toledo & Army Museum.

Since we had already seen a few churches and I have boys who love army stuff, we opted for the latter. The Alcázar de Toledo is the massive rectangualr fortress located at the highest point of Toledo. It is the most prominent landmark seen from the Tagus River and is instantly recognizable.

Above photo: Alcázar de Toledo as seen from the Alcantara Bridge

Above photo: The Statue of Peace at the Alcazar of Toledo Spanish Army Museum

The Alcázar was originally a Roman palace. Like most ancient buildings, it has been through numerous restorations and re-builds over the years. It sustained the most damage during the Spanish Civil War when it was sieged, held, and eventually liberated. Since then, it has become a symbol of Spanish Nationalism and the home of the Army Museum. We loved the museum!

Above photos: Alcázar de Toledo

As we ended our rounds in Toledo, we exited at the same place we entered at Puente de San Martín. Except, instead of walking over the bridge, we ziplined over the river. Fly Toledo Zipline is located at the end of Bajada San Martín. They will harness you up and send you flying. It’s a great way to end the day for kids who have patiently accompanied you in the heat.

Above photos: Fly Toledo Zipline

Our day wasn’t entirely over yet through. We hopped back on our Hop-On Hop-Off Bus to resume our tour around the outskirts of the city. Although we didn’t get off the bus to explore on foot, we had the opportunity to lay out eyes on a few other notable sites including the Hospital de Tavera and Puerta de Bisagra.

Above photo: View of the Tagus River and the Alcantara Bridge

My biggest tip for visiting Toledo is to purchase an exhaustive attractions guide and create a list of the places that you are most interested in seeing. Unless you plan an overnight stay, it is unlikely you will have time to see everything at a pace you can enjoy. We aimed to see a something from each of the three cultures whose presence has left their indelible mark here. Stay hydrated. Bring your camera. Prep your IG followers for the deluge in your feed.

To read more about our previous 2-Days in Madrid, click here.