The Ring of Kerry

The Grand Tour Around Ireland’s Scenic Iveragh Peninsula, The Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry is a popular scenic drive around the Iveragh Peninsula in Ireland. The loop follows the coastline and passes through charming seaside villages along the way. If you happen to be planning a road trip through Ireland, this route and/or the Dingle Peninsula are likely to be somewhere in the mix. A lot of folks will just choose one or the other due to time constraints. However, if you are traveling at a more leisurely pace, both offer incredible opportunities to see the rugged Irish countryside and rural seaside life.

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My husband and I incorporated our drive around the Ring of Kerry during our eight-day road trip through Southern Ireland. Although the entire route is only 179km long, it took us around 6 hours to complete. We stopped frequently to enjoy the views and points of interest. We loved it — but we were really happy to reach our hotel at the end of the day.

To read an overview of our full eight-day itinerary through Ireland, click here.

The starting point for our wonderful Sunday drive was the town of Killarney. We came into town after visiting Blarney Castle in the morning. Our plan was to grab lunch and set off from there. Killarney ended up being more than we expected. It was full of busy shops, people, and traffic. Maybe we just hit the after-church crowd or maybe it is always busy on the weekends. At any rate, we did hit some congestion and it took a little while to find parking.

Above photos: Killarney

Despite the slow entry, Killarney has a super colorful and lively Main Street to explore. I use the word “explore” very loosely because we really did not have time to fully take in all of the wonderful shopping, sites, and cafes in the town center. However, we did not pass up the opportunity to try the locally handmade Dingle ice cream at Murphy’s Ice Cream. Not only is this the best ice cream on the island, it is made from fresh, natural ingredients so you can feel good about it as you scarf it down!

Above photos: Murphy’s Ice Cream

And then we were off! The Ring of Kerry has many interesting places to stop and explore. You can decide whether to make it a Sunday drive (extending into Monday morning), as we did, or make it a much longer experience spread out over 2 – 3 days. Regrettably, Jason and I had to pass on Valentia Island, boating out to the Skelligs, and visiting Kerry Cliffs. I really regret missing the Skelligs, but that was just one of tough choices we had to make.

Following is the blow-by-blow of stops along our drive. As you can see from the photos, there was not a single bad view. My advice would be to cram in as much as you can without feeling rushed. And, don’t be afraid to play it by ear.

Ring of Kerry Driving Itinerary:

• Kerry Village Bog Museum
• Rossbeigh Strand
• Mountain Stage Viewpoint
• Ballycarbery Castle
• Cahergall Stone Fort
• Daniel O’Connell’s Memorial Church
• Kenmare
• Moll’s Gap
• Killarney National Park
• Muckross House and Gardens
• Ross Castle

Kerry Village Bog Museum

Our first stop after leaving Killarney was the Kerry Village Bog Museum located off of N70, just before the River Caragh Viewing Point. We didn’t have this on our list of stops originally, but when saw it, we were intrigued and decided to stop. The museum is an open-air recreation of what a typical bog village would have looked like at the turn of the 19th century. It is a very special place that will transport your mind to a different time.

Above photos: Kerry Village Bog Museum

While at the museum, you can also meet their Irish Wolf Hound and the Kerry Bog Ponies grazing in the field behind the thatched-roof cottages. This is a nice stop for families with children. We enjoyed it, as well!

Above photo: Kerry Bog Ponies

Just a few minutes down the road, be sure to stop at the River Caragh Viewing Point for a moment to take in this scenic spot between the Upper Caragh Fishery and Caragh Lake.

Above photos: River Caragh Viewing Point

Rossbeigh Strand

Continuing on N70, we came into the village of Glenbeigh. We didn’t stop here, but there are a couple things to see if you are interested, such as the Old Station House and Behy Bridge. You’ll cross over the bridge after you turn off N70 and onto R564, which goes up to Rossbeigh Strand.

We loved this discovery point along the Wild Atlantic Way. The section of the beach we visited was rocky (and windy!). Further out, the beach has a sandy stretch that is ideal for walking or horseback riding. I would have loved to have done a horseback beach trek with the Rossbeigh Beach Riding Centre.

Above photos: Rossbeigh Strand

Mountain Stage Viewpoint

Back on N70, our next stop was the Mountain Stage Viewpoint. This is an incredibly scenic spot with 360-degree panoramic views of Dingle Bay. Gorgeous! It’s a quick stop…or not…just depending on how long you want to gaze into the great wide open.

Above photos: Mountain Stage Viewpoint

Just past this viewpoint, you’ll pass by the Gleensk Viaduct, which was part of the Great Southern and Western Railway Line. It is no longer used, but at one time it was part of one of the most scenic train journeys in the world. I didn’t grab a photo, but I promise its there:). I did, however, get a photo of these impartial sheep.

Above photo: Rural life

Ballycarbery Castle

This next highly recommended stop takes you off the beaten path of N70. Be on the lookout for a sharp right turn marked with a signpost for Pilgrim’s Path. The road turns into Castlequin Road and towards an area known as Kimego West. Locals refer to this area as “over the water.” There are three major historical attractions here, plus several walking/hiking paths and a couple great beaches.

The first of the sites that drew our interest was Ballycarbery Castle. This beautiful, romantic ruin stands out in the open landscape. It was once home to the McCarthy Clan and built sometime in the 15th century. It now still barely stands, covered in ivy and hoarding secrets of the past.

Above photos: Ballycarbery Castle

Cahergall and Leacanabuaile Stone Forts

Within ear shot of Ballycarbery Castle, there are two ancient stone forts. Cahergall dates to 600 AD. This dry stone wall fort (i.e., built without mortar) is one of the best examples of an early medieval stone found on the Ring of Kerry.

Above photos: Cahergall Stone Fort

The Leacanabuaile Stone Fort probably dates to the 9th or 10th century. However, Iron and Bronze Age artifacts were found during excavations suggesting that the area was once home to an early Christian farming community. The partially reconstructed fort contains the remnants of a square dwelling house built on top of earlier circular ones.

Above photo: View of the partially excavated Leacanabuaile Stone Fort as seen from Cahergall

Stuff this old makes me realize how brief my life is in the context of history. It is fascinating that these structures are still here after thousands of years and it is fascinating to contemplate the lives of the people who dwelt within them.

Daniel O’Connell’s Church

We backtracked our way to N70 and the town of Cahersiveen. There is a very pretty church here called the Daniel O’Connell Memorial Church of the Holy Cross. It is the the only church in Ireland to be called after a layman. While the church is not as old as other cathedrals I’ve visited throughout Europe, it is beautiful nonetheless. I was really moved by the story of Daniel O’Connell and his work to bring about Catholic Emancipation.

Above photos: Daniel O’Connell Memorial Church of the Holy Cross

From Cahersiveen, it is possible to turn down R565 towards Portmagee. Here you can catch a ferry to the Skellig Islands, see the Kerry Cliffs, or pop over to Valentia Island. The Skelligs are two uninhabited, rocky islets. Skellig Michael is known for its well-preserved early Christian monastery. I’ve heard amazing things about the tour boat that takes you out to see the islands, but we simply could not fit it in.

Instead, we continued to follow N70 through Dereen, Waterville, and Ardkeragh before making the turn eastward towards Castlecove and Sneem. Once on the southern part of the Ring of Kerry and driving east, the water will be on right side. The views looking out to the water are magical. There are many small islands and inlets, and the landscape becomes a bit more hilly.

Above photos: Views from the southwestern coastline of the Ring of Kerry

If you are so inclined, there are also a number of other archeological sites and historical attractions. Some of more popular places to stop include: Derrynane House, the Loher and Staigue Stone Forts, Castlecove and Coral beaches, Parknasilla (gorgeous views here!), and the Glacier Lake Museum. Going back to my earlier point, it is entirely possible to fill multiple days driving the Ring of Kerry!

Above photo: View overlooking Parknasilla

Kenmare

Jason and I were exhausted at this point and ready to reach our hotel. We had reservations at the Park Hotel Kenmare. This was hands-down my favorite hotel in Ireland. The Park Hotel is a Relais & Chateau property with an award-winning AA Two Rosette Dining Room. Once we arrived, we were firmly situated for the rest of the evening.

Above photos: The Park Hotel Kenmare

The hotel property is hidden away amongst the trees and overlooks Kenmare Bay. After our exquisite dinner, we took to the wooded walking paths and enjoyed the views at the water’s edge. Sitting here reminiscing and writing about it makes me want to go back. The splurge for this haven of luxury and respite was worth every penny.

Above photos: The Park Hotel Kenmare

Kenmare also has a wonderful town center. It is a popular alternative starting or ending point when driving the Ring of Kerry. Or, if you are starting in Killarney and driving clockwise, Kenmare would be a great place to stop for lunch.

Moll’s Gap

Feeling quite refreshed after our night of 5-star luxury, we headed out to complete the final leg of our driving loop around the Ring of Kerry. In this case, “saved the best for last” ended up being 100% accurate.

If you are not able to drive the entire Ring of Kerry, you may want to consider the drive from Kenmare to Killarney. It is hardly a compromise because there are so many “Wow!” moments all along the way.

Moll’s Gap is s a mountain pass on the N71. As we drove north and started climbing in elevation, we were overwhelmed by the breathtaking beauty of the landscape. It was a little misty that morning, which just made it feel mystical and other-worldly. Also, oddly, very little traffic!! It was mostly just us and the sheep:)

Above photos: Moll’s Gap

There is a big horseshoe bend in the road near the junction of N71 and R568. Right on the bend, there is a really big Avoca store and cafe (the same one I fell in love with in Dublin). We stopped here to grab a couple more gifts and some car snacks. I love my Avoca plaid scarves that I brought home. Quite possibly my favorite Irish souvenir (um, hmm, it probably is a tie between the Avoca scarves and the Jameson whiskey).

Above photo: Avoca Shop & Cafe

Killarney National Park

The next stretch of road to Ladies View was only about 6km (less than 10 minutes). Along the way, we very briefly stopped at the
Looscaunagh Lough Viewpoint (very nice).

Above photos: At the Looscaunagh Lough Viewpoint

Ladies View is just inside the boundary of Killarney National Park. It a breathtaking viewpoint overlooking the Derrycunnihy Wood Nature Preserve and the park.  If you miss this, turn around. In the same area, you can also look for the Mulgrave Barracks (roadside castle ruins) and Derrycunnihy Falls (if you are up for a short hike).

Above photos: Ladies View

Killarney National Park is a significant area to explore – it is hard to lump it in with the Ring of Kerry because it isn’t merely another stop. There are scenic views, lakes, hiking trails, and wildlife in abundance. We were able to enjoy a lot through the windshield of our rental car, but the short hikes here and there were the best part.

I highly recommend the walk to Torc Waterfall. Not all waterfalls are created equal, but this is a good one! Torc Waterfall is a long 70ft cascade waterfall formed by the Owengarriff River. It is about a 5 minute walk up the hill to the waterfall where you can soak it all in before returning to the car park.

Above photos: Torc Waterfall

Muckross House and Gardens

Our final stop on our drive was Muckross House and Gardens. This Victorian estate is located within Killarney National Park on the shores of Muckross Lake.

If you happen to be a little castled-out at this point, Muckross House offers something a bit different. The house is polished and refined, and the gardens are manicured to perfection.

Visit is by guided tour only and no photography was permitted. However, I can testify that it was beautiful:)

Above photos: Muckross House

While we were awaiting our tour starting time, we took a walk through the extensive grounds. I’m a fan of formal gardens, and loved the thoughtfully planned out themed gardens surrounding the house, as well as planters overflowing with summer blooms.

Above photos: Muckross House Gardens

Muckross Abbey and Ross Castle

We did not make it to Muckross Abbey or Ross Castle. However, I wanted to mention each of these places because they deserve a spot on any Ring of Kerry itinerary. We just ran out of time 🙁

Muckross Abbey is a mere 5 minute walk from the Muckross House car park. So, I’m a little confused as to how and why we missed this.

Ross Castle is a 15th-century tower house (similar to Blarney Castle) located on the edge of Lough Leane. It is only 8km (less than 15 minutes) from Muckross House. So, we really coulda-shoulda-woulda.

Planning a drive around the Ring of Kerry will present you with some tough choices unless you have time on your side. While we never felt rushed, we obviously had to pass over some wonderful activities and attractions. We enjoyed it immensely and hope you do too!

Read about the next stop on our Ireland road trip: Adare and Limerick here.

Above photos: Scenes from the Ring of Kerry

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