San Antonio

An Autumn Weekend Get-Away in San Antonio, Texas

San Antonio is a top US destination for southwestern culture, historical landmarks, super fun attractions, and a variety of specialty cuisines. Its colorful streets and waterways combined with seemingly endless sunshine make it a sure bet for those seeking a cheery, warm-weather get-away.

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Since I have been living in Texas most of my adult life, I have visited San Antonio more times that I can count. This lively city seldom disappoints and is always a good time – whether catching theme park action with the kids, playing tour guide with out-of-state guests, or getting away for some proper R & R.

This past fall, my husband and I decided to squeeze in quickie get-away break before the holidays fully kicked in. The spring and fall are two of the best times to visit San Antonio because the temperatures are comfortable. If you are not used to the heat, take this advice seriously. Texas gets smokin’ hot. Even for those of us who have acclimated to the stifling triple digits for months at a time, no one really enjoys walking around drenched in sweat.

Above photos: San Antonio Riverwalk

In mid-November, a lot of Christmas decorations were already up, although the lights were not yet turned on. Every year, San Antonio kicks-off the Christmas Season with a lighting ceremony and boat parade. Viewing the parade is a ticketed event and is hugely popular. Of course, after the ceremony (usually the day after Thanksgiving), the lights turn on every night at dusk throughout the holiday season. So, if your timing doesn’t match up with the parade, the lights can still be enjoyed for free until Three Kings Day (January 6th).

Our weekend plans started on a Friday afternoon and wrapped mid-day on Sunday. So, roughly 48 hours over the course of a 2 night stay. If you are a first-time visitor or have kids in tow, a 3 or 4 night stay would allow additional time to enjoy the theme parks or spend an afternoon floating around your hotel’s lazy river.

I’m excited to share the details of our weekend itinerary and include some extra information on how to augment your visit for a longer stay. I have also published a separate post detailing our self-guided bike tour of the San Antonio Missions.

In this post:

• Where to stay in San Antonio
• Day 1: Top things to do downtown
• Day 2: The San Antonio Missions & King William Neighborhood
• Day 3: Japanese Tea Garden & San Antonio Zoo
• Where to eat
• Add-ons
• Other travel tips and resources

Where to stay in San Antonio

San Antonio is a rather spread out city. The downtown landmarks and historical Riverwalk are the focus for many visitors. There is an abundance of hotel options within walking distance to these sites. Still, you will need to drive or take an Uber for a few of the popular attractions on the outskirts.

The Six Flags Fiesta Texas and Sea World theme parks are about a 20 – 30 minute drive to the west of the downtown area. There have been times when we have stayed at a hotel resort adjacent to the parks and didn’t set foot downtown. Resorts such as the Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort are perfect for trips with kids that are centered around the parks and the hotel amenities.

For a luxe weekend get-away, my faves are Hotel Emma and Mokara Hotel & Spa. Both of these properties have gorgeous roof top pools, spas and great dining options. Mokara Hotel & Spa has a more centralized location in the heart of the Riverwalk district, while Hotel Emma is located farther north, closer to the zoo and botanical gardens. If you are interested in spending time wandering up and down the most popular section of the Riverwalk, Mokara has a more advantageous location.

A couple other hotel properties to consider in close proximity to the Riverwalk include: Marriott Riverwalk and The Emily Morgan Hotel. For a budget friendly option, check out the Courtyard Riverwalk.

Above photo: Mokara Hotel & Spa

Day 1 Itinerary: Things to do

Our first afternoon in San Antonio started off looking for parking near the San Fernando Cathedral where we wanted to start and end our walking tour. Parking isn’t too terrible downtown, but most public lots and garages will charge a daily rate. Our itinerary that follows below was thoughtfully planned so we only had to park once and would make a full circle on foot.

San Fernando Cathedral

The San Fernando Cathedral, also called the Cathedral of Our Lady of Candelaria and Guadalupe, is a historic Gothic Revival Catholic church located on the Plaza de Las Islas Canarias, a shady public square in the center of downtown. The church dates to 1731 and is the oldest, continuous religious congregation in Texas and also one of the oldest in the country.

The church was founded by 16 families from the Spanish Canary Islands. The back side of the church is still the original structure. In addition to the cathedral, they established the first civil government and the acequia system that brought water to the area. Descendants of the Canary Islanders continue to play an active role in the community.

Above photos: San Fernando Cathedral

One of most special features of the cathedral is the tomb of the heroes of the Alamo including Dave Crockett, Jim Bowie, and William B. Travis. Many incorrectly assume those that lost their lives during the historic battle would be held within the shrine at the Alamo itself. However, they have always been here at the cathedral.

We came back to the cathedral at the end of the day to watch the Saga Light Show — more on that later in this post!

Above photos: Tomb of Texas Heros at San Fernando Cathedral

Bexar County Courthouse

Another building facing the Plaza de Las Islas Canarias is the Bexar County Courthouse. It is the largest and oldest continuously operating historic courthouse in Texas dating to 1892. If the grand Romanesque Revival architecture doesn’t catch your eye, the colorful native Texas granite and red sandstone will.

Above photos: Bexar County Courthouse

Be sure to notice the Lady of Justice Fountain outside the courthouse, sculpted by Gilbert E. Barrera in 1896, and the Founders’ Monument, which commemorates the four founding communities of San Antonio – American Indians, Franciscan friars, Presidio soldiers, and Canary Islanders.

Above photo: Lady of Justice Fountain

STREAM at San Pedro Creek Culture Park

As we walked towards Market Square on West Commerce Street, we passed an interactive art installation called STREAM. The exhibit uses a microphone to capture the sounds of San Antonio (such as the people who are walking by and talking into it). The sounds are translated into light and water effects in this massive waterfall. When no one is around the fountain is rigged to the on-air sounds of Texas Public Radio, whose headquarters are located opposite the fountain. It’s super cool!

Above photo: STREAM at San Pedro Creek Culture Park

Historic Market Square

One of the best places to experience the culture of Mexico come alive is Historic Market Square. This pedestrianized marketplace is sandwiched between Delarosa Street and West Commerce Street, with the main entrance facing Santa Rosa Street. The colorful streamers and music make it hard to miss!

Every weekend, Market Square is full of live entertainment, food and shopping stalls, and other cultural events. It is open during the week, as well, but will be a little quieter.

Above photos: Historic Market Square

Keep an eye out for Mi Tierra Cafe & Bakery. This historic Mexican cafe and bakery is always decorated to the hilt. Their cafe offers classic fare, Tex-Mex dishes, and margaritas. Or, if you can’t stay, the bakery counter has plenty of Mexican pastries for take-away, such as churros, tres leches, campechanas, and (my favorite) pink pan de paño.

Above photos: Mi Tierra Cafe & Bakery

The Riverwalk & River Boat Tour

The San Antonio Riverwalk is the most visited tourist attraction in Texas. While there are many historical aspects of the San Antonio River, the Riverwalk as we know it today is a rather recent scene. Just since the 1960s when the Paseo del Rio project plans went forward, have visitors started to enjoy it as a recreational park and business district. Even since I started coming to San Antonio in the 90s, there have been significant changes (for the better).

Above photo: San Antonio Riverwalk

Today, the Riverwalk is an iconic landmark full of charm, arts & culture, shops and restaurants, and entertainment. No visit to San Antonio is complete without experiencing a little adventure below street level.

There are multiple bridges and access points to the Riverwalk throughout the downtown area. We took the steps next to the East Commerce Street bridge and followed the main Paseo del Rio loop towards the St. Mary’s Street bridge and onward.

Above photos: San Antonio Riverwalk

A leisurely walk along the Riverwalk is the perfect way to enjoy it. However, taking a Go Rio River Boat Tour will exponentially add to your visit. It is super touristy, but literally everyone does it (I’ve done it no less that 6 times). The guides narrate the 35-minute tour and point out historical landmarks, bits of interesting trivia, and make it a really fun experience. Tour tickets can be purchased at on-site ticket booths or online in advance.

Above photos: Go Rio River Boat Tour, San Antonio

The Alamo

The legendary and historic Mission San Antonio de Valero, more commonly known as The Alamo, is a must-see for visitors to San Antonio. The former Spanish Mission was the site of the pivotal Battle of the Alamo igniting the Texas Revolution and her fight for independence from Mexico. I still get goosebumps every time I visit.

is a sacred and solemn shrine of remembrance and respect. It is free to visit the 4.2 acre complex, but timed-entry reservations are required. It is also helpful to read the Visiting Tips on the official Alamo website and familiarize yourself with the etiquette rules. There is no photography permitted inside The Alamo.

Above photo: The Alamo

Shops at Rivercenter

The next stop along our clockwise walking route was the Shops at Rivercenter, a shopping mall with popular retailers, restaurants, an IMAX movie theater, and a Marriott hotel. The crowds can be heavy down this stretch that branches off to the east of the main Riverwalk loop. We didn’t do any major shopping during this visit, but it was nice to see the holiday decorations and landmarks.

Above photos: Shops at Rivercenter

Hemisfair Park

Opposite the Shops at Rivercenter, there is a short stretch that leads to The Grotto, part of the Henry B. González Convention Center. At the end of The Grotto, there is a short set of stairs that lead up to a park-like area and walking path to Hemisfair Park.

Hemisfair Park is the area that was developed for the 1968 World’s Fair that includes the iconic Tower of the Americas. The park has been re-developed as an urban park and public event space. There are numerous fountains and a playground here, but the star attraction is the 750-foot-tall tower that you can take to the top for panoramic views of the entire city from the observation deck.

We planned our day to end up here around dinner time and had made reservations for Chart House. While it was dark and chilly by this time, the park was wonderfully illuminated and atmospheric. More on our dinner at Chart House later in this post.

Above photo: Tower of the Americas, Hemisfair Park

Saga Light Show at the San Fernando Cathedral

Following our circuit around the Riverwalk, we made our way back to the East Commerce Street bridge and over to Plaza de Las Islas Canarias, the main square that faces the San Fernando Cathedral. I said we were coming back, right?

The San Fernando Cathedral is the backdrop for the Saga Light Show, an audio-visual projection that presents the history of San Antonio and the State of Texas. The projection covers the entire facade of the cathedral — some 7,000 square feet of light. Folks come out in droves to watch the 24-minute presentation.

If you are parked close-by, you can pull out lawn chairs or a picnic blanket to sit comfortably. Most folks just find a place to sit on the ground as there are only a few tables and chairs in the square. The best seat in the house is right on the plaza, front and center!

Above photos: Saga Light Show at the San Fernando Cathedral

Day 2 Itinerary: Things to do

San Antonio Missions

We’ve all heard of the Alamo, but a lot of visitors don’t realize that this is only one of five amazing frontier structures in the immediate vicinity. The San Antonio Missions National Historic Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site preserving four of the five Spanish frontier missions in San Antonio (the fifth one is the Alamo, which is separately managed). The missions are located along a 7.7 mile stretch of the San Antonio River and can be freely visited throughout the year.

The missions were built in the early eighteenth century with the purpose of colonizing and evangelizing Catholicism to the indigenous peoples. Each mission has a church at its center and is surrounded by small homes, wells, granaries, and farm lands. For more details and photos of each of the missions, please follow this link to read my separate post on the San Antonio Missions.

Above photos: Mission San José

The Mission Reach is a hike & bike trail system whereby visitors can walk or bicycle to all four Spanish colonial missions—Concepción, San José, San Juan, and Espada. Along the Mission Reach trail there are also pedestrian bridges, fishing spots, and pavilions. So, you can really make a day of visiting the missions, while enjoying the river and picnic spots in between. We decided to rent bikes from Blue Star Bike Shop located in the Blue Star Arts Complex about 5 minutes south by car from the main Riverwalk area.

The trail is well maintained. There are a few moderately difficult sections, and we definitely felt it in our legs by the end of the day. Still, it was easier than walking and such a great way to see the nature along the river. You can also drive from mission-to-mission. There is plenty of free parking at each site.

Above photos: Mission Reach Hike & Bike Trail

To read my complete post about visiting the San Antonio Missions, click here.

King William Historic District

Our day was pretty much taken up with the missions, but we had a little time left before sunset. So, we decided to go gawk at the beautiful mansions in the King William Historic District. The 25-blocks that comprise the district was San Antonio’s first suburb, originally settled by wealthy German merchants in the late 1800s,

The district is walkable from the central downtown area, but we were worn out and quite content with a slow drive-through and our map. I had downloaded this one and it was a great reference. Many of the homes in this district have been restored by individual owners and members of the preservation society. A few have even been converted into museums. 

If you have time, this lovely neighborhood also has locally-owned bars, coffee shops, boutiques, museums and art galleries. Parking is available at the Blue Star Arts Complex (where we rented our bikes for the Mission Reach) in case you want to explore the area on-foot, which is definitely the preferred way to take in the incredible architecture, posted historical markers, and lush landscaping.

Above photos: King William Historic District

Day 3 Itinerary: Things to do

Japanese Tea Garden

After our brunch on Sunday morning, we drove north of downtown to the Brackenridge Park area where you can find various green spaces, gardens, golf courses, and the zoo. It had started to drizzle, but we took our umbrellas and headed to the Japanese Tea Garden.

Above photos: Japanese Sunken Tea Garden

I’m not sure if the sunken garden is still a “hidden gem” or not. It seems that tourists have discovered its serene charm and idyllic backdrop for Instagram photos. The garden was formerly a limestone rock quarry, but has since been complete re-designed with lush plantings, walkways, stone bridges, a 60-foot waterfall and Koi ponds.

The garden is completely free to visit. There is a small gift shop and the Jingu House restaurant where you can stop off for lunch or order a garden mojito to sip on while you enjoy the gorgeous views.

Above photos: Japanese Sunken Tea Garden

San Antonio Zoo

The final stop on our weekend itinerary was the San Antonio Zoo. However, we got rained out:( The photos below are from a previous visit with the kids. The San Antonio Zoo has been operating since 1917 and is home to over 3,500 animals (800 species). Every time I go, there is something new to see.

A favorite with kids is Lory Landing where you can feed colorful lorikeet birds nectar while they land on your arms and shoulders. The giraffe feeding encounter is pretty amazing, too!

Above photos: San Antonio Zoo

Where to eat

Over the years, I’ve dined at numerous (too many to keep track of) restaurants along the River Walk. I don’t ever recall having a bad meal. Certainly nothing the ambiance or a margarita can’t make up for. Some of the more popular spots are The County Line (bbq), Saltgrass (steak), Dick’s Last Resort (southern), Rita’s on the River (Mexican), and Iron Cactus (Mexican). I would definitely recommend including a TexMex option and BBQ somewhere on your weekend itinerary. Did you even really come to Texas if you didn’t get BBQ?

Above photos: Margaritas on the Riverwalk

Ostra at the Mokara Hotel & Spa

One of my all-time Riverwalk favorites is Ostra, which is the seafood restaurant in the Mokara Hotel. The raw bar is amazing! Since I live in Texas, I get my fill of TexMex and BBQ all the time. So, when traveling, I tend to gravitate towards upscale dining options that aren’t in our usual family meal repertoire. Ostra has outdoor seating right on the Riverwalk so you can people-watch as you slurp down oysters and tequila.

Above photos: Ostra at Mokara Hotel

Chart House at Tower of the Americas

On our most recent visit, we decided to finally dine at Chart House, located at the top of the Tower of America’s. As many times as I’ve visited Hemisfair Park and the observation deck, I’d never dined at the rotating restaurant.

Chart House is a very nice restaurant, suitable for a special occasion. I felt slightly underdressed wearing the same clothes that I had walked around in all day. A lot of restaurants known for their views come up short with the food. Not the case for Chart House. We loved our meal here and – yes – the views of the twinkling San Antonio lights were spectacular!

Above photo: City view from Chart House, Tower of the Americas

The County Line

Although we didn’t eat at The County Line during our recent visit, we have often. The County Line also has locations in Austin and El Paso. This is a place we like to bring out-of-town guests for huge portions of Texas BBBQ, live music, and a comfy atmosphere. Oh – and their bread is sooooo gooood!

Blue Star Brewing Company

We stopped at the Blue Star Brewing Company for a quick bite after completing our bike tour of the San Antonio Mission Reach. The pub fare was fine, but the real draw is the microbrewery with an array of craft beers. The location is convenient for those visiting the missions and/or the King William Historic District.

Above photo: Blue Star Brewing Company

Ocho at Havana Hotel

Possibly my favorite meal of the weekend was our Sunday brunch at Ocho, located in the Havana Hotel overlooking the river. The menu consists of Pan-Latin fare and the portions were generous. We refilled our coffees multiple times so we could linger and enjoy the ambiance of the stunning glass conservatory. Reservations are recommended.

Above photos: Ocho at Havana Hotel

Add-ons

Being a large, metropolitan city, San Antonio has so much more to offer than what we were able to fit into our romantic weekend escape. For those looking to stay a while longer, or perhaps just put together a different mix of activities, I’ve listed some of my other favorite attractions that I have visited (some multiple times) over the years.

La Villita Historic Village A historic artisan village listed on the U.S. government’s National Register of Historic Places where you can shop, dine, and enjoy art galleries.

San Antonio Botanical Gardens San Antonio’s botanical gardens covering 38-acres of plants, walking paths, and exhibitions.

Sea Life San Antonio A kid-friendly aquarium with a really cool tunnel that passes under the water for a unique experience surrounded by fish and sea creatures.

The DoSeum A hands-on children’s museum where kids can interact and play with exhibits.

Six Flags Fiesta Texas The best amusement park in central Texas.

Sea World San Antonio A popular theme park with up-close animal experiences with dolphins, seals, and sea lions. It also has quite a few rides and roller coasters.

Majestic Theater San Antonio’s oldest and largest theatre for Broadway shows and great comedy acts. I saw Jerry Seinfeld perform here and it was a great experience. Check out their website for upcoming events.

San Antonio Museum of Art This is a wonderful art museum with a diverse collection. It is housed in the historic former Lone Star Brewery on the Museum Reach of the San Antonio River Walk.

Briscoe Western Art Museum Another wonderful Riverwalk art museum. Its collection is focused on the culture and heritage of the Western frontier.

Above photos: The Arneson River Theater with the 5-Bells representing the 5 San Antonio Missions (left); Across the river, theater seating and the entrance to La Vallita

Above photos: T.D. Kelsey sculpture outside the Briscoe Western Art Museum (left); Lila Crockell Theater at the The Henry B. González Convention Center (right)

Other travel tips and resources

CityPASS San Antonio is a tourist card that provides discounts on admission to popular attractions. The pass is a flat-fee and includes access to your choice of 4 participating attractions, including The Alamo, Tower of the Americas, Go Rio River Cruises, San Antonio Zoo, and some museums. It is worth taking a few minutes to work the math to see if if would provide cost-savings to your plans. As long as you plan on visiting 4 attractions, it is likely to work out to be a deal.

San Antonio is a very friendly city that can be easily navigated with your GPS whether you are driving or walking. Still, if you are not comfortable going on your own or are interested in having a knowledgeable local point out the sights, I have added a few tour options below.

Thank you for reading my post! Please feel free to add friendly comments or questions below!