Quebec at Christmas Part 2

A Holiday Quebec City Break in a Winter Wonderland (cont’d)

To read about Day 1: Terrasse Dufferin, Quartier Petit Champlain, Ferry to Levis, Marche du Noelle click here.

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Day 2: Montmorency Falls, Sanctuaire Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, Place d’Youville

We broke up our city break to Quebec with a day trip to Montmorency Falls. It is so close to the city that you can Uber or taxi there in about 15 minutes. But, we decided to rent a car for the day so we would have the freedom to make other stops. And, also, I don’t do well if I get stuck waiting in the cold for ride. So, a rental car it was!

Montmorency Falls (or, Chute Montmorency in French) is a large waterfall on the Montmorency River. Once you arrive at the visitor center, you can park and enjoy a walk along the promenade at the base of the falls. During the warm weather months, this is where you can purchase tickets for the cable car that takes visitors to the top of the falls. Alternatively, there are walking paths through the wooded slope leading up to the viewing decks.

Above photo: Montmorency Falls

One other option is to drive! This option was 100% for us. If you set your navigation to Manoir Montmorency, you can follow the directions that lead up to a beautiful restaurant with some parking spaces. This does not seem like it would be accessible to crowds during the summer, but it worked out well in December when there was hardly another soul visiting the park. From the parking lot, it was just a short walk to the path to the various observations decks, and ultimately the suspension bridge.

Above photos: Montmorency Falls [My coat: Land’s End; Down joggers: Holden; Boots: Sorel]

Montmorency Falls and the park are great to visit any time of the year. Don’t let the cold weather stop you from missing this beautiful location (just dress appropriately!). The best part about visiting during the winter is missing the parking lot congestion and ticket lines. You may also get to see parts of the falls completely frozen, along with chunks of snow and ice that always look so dramatic.

Following our morning at Montmorency Park, we decided to make the most use of our rental car and keep going East on QC-138 to Sanctuaire Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré. It is a basilica set along the Saint Lawrence River and is one of the eight national shrines of Canada. Many have received miraculous healings here and leave behind their crutches and braces as a testimony. It is the oldest pilgrimage site in North America. 

Above photos: Sanctuaire Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré

Driving in Quebec was no different from driving in the US except for a few different road signs. Everything is displayed in both English and French in case you rely on signs. We stuck to our GPS nav, which made it even easier. It was nice to get outside of the main city area for a day. If you’d prefer not to rent a car, the falls are still within reasonable distance for your ride app service or taxi. However, the basilica is a bit far (about 22 min / 26 km from Montmorency Falls).

After returning our rental car, we headed out to find a place to eat dinner. Not too far from the hotel, we found Restaurant Aux Anciens Canadians. It is the oldest house in Québec (1675) and has been transformed into a restaurant. It looked so cute with its bright red roof and lamp posts. The menu posted outside the doors had plenty to choose from. So, we decided to give it a try!

We had a really nice meal here. The atmosphere was super cozy and quaint; tables were set with checkered tablecloths and charming dinnerware. Our meals came out with lovely presentations and the food was delicious!

Above photo: Restaurant Aux Anciens Canadians

Our evening plans consisted of walking to see some of the fortifications. These historical defense structures consist of large stone walls and gates that encircle the Old Town. One of the more impressive ones we saw was St. John Gate. Once you pass through the gate, Place d’Youville (it rhymes with Whoville!) is immediately on the other side.

Above photo: St. John Gate

Place d’Youville is a fun and lively shopping area and popular public square. We walked up and down both sides of the street, popping in and out of the shops and admiring the holiday lights. The square itself has a little outdoor ice skating rink in the winter. And, yes, of course I did!

Above photos: Place d’Youville

Day 3: Strom Spa Nordique, Morrin Center, Caleches Quebec

On our last full day in Quebec, I somehow convinced my husband that we should try Strøm Nordic Spa. I had read about this thermal spa experience before we left for our trip, but wasn’t able to get full cooperation on the idea until we got there. We were able to make reservations online and chose the Classic Thermal Experience.

After checking-in to the spa, my husband and I parted ways to our respective locker rooms to change into our bathing suits and robes (robes were provided). All of our personal belongings, included our cell phones, were safely tucked away in our lockers. Cell phones and photography are not permitted in the thermal pool areas, allowing us to be completely present in the moment and fully relax.

The spa ended up being the highlight of our trip. It was incredible! The heated pools are mostly outdoors. The air was chilly on our faces, but our bodies were otherwise submerged in the steamy baths. Once your body temperature rises, there are ice baths that you can plunge into for the therapy treatment. Taking your body from extremely hot to extremely cold temperatures can strengthen your immune system, purify your body, and soothe aches and pains. I’m telling you – it’s incredible! P.S. You are not required to do the ice baths. If that’s not your thing, you can still enjoy the heated pools, saunas, and relaxation rooms.

Above photo: Strøm Nordic Spa

We spent the full morning at Strøm Nordic Spa. Enjoyed every minute of it, but we still had a few more things we wanted to see. The first one was the Morrin Center, which houses the only English-speaking library in Quebec.

The Morrin Center has an interesting 200 year history, as the city’s first prison (which you can see underground) that was then converted into a school (so, same thing really), and then finally converted into a beautiful library.

Above photo: Morrin Center Library

As the afternoon faded, we headed back to our hotel to get organized for our flight out the next day. Once we felt we had everything under control, we stepped out for our final evening. Although it was a bit touristy, we really wanted to enjoy a traditional caleche ride. These horse-drawn carriages were once widely available around Esplanade Park, but in recent years have all but disappeared. We were so lucky to have found our driver and his horse, Charlie, right outside our hotel.

Above photo: Fairmont Le Château Frontenac

Alas, we hit the bar to warm up after our carriage ride. We pulled up to the Drinking Lounge at Bistro 1640 and were thoroughly entertained by the amazing bartenders making their signature craft drinks. I can’t even remember what it was called, but it started out with something being set on fire and ended up in a lowball. Great night cap! The food menu looked impressive, too, but it was the end of the night for us with an early flight out the next morning. Bonne nuit, Québec. Nous aimons votre esprit de Noël.

Above photo: Bistro 1640

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