Highlands Road Trip: Loch Ness

Visiting Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle, and Eilean Donan in Scotland

When I was in the 4th grade, I distinctly remember writing a report on the Loch Ness monster. The memory of that report has stuck with me my whole life, and I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t excited about finally seeing Loch Ness with my own eyes during our 10-day drive through the Scottish Highlands.

An overview of our complete 10-Day Scottish Highlands Road Trip itinerary can be found here.

We had an amazing, blue sky day for our southerly drive along the west side of the loch. At several points, we pulled over for the views. The side of the road does not have much of a shoulder, but there are quite a few designated viewing areas to pull into safely.

Above photo: Loch Ness

Urquhart Castle is situated on the shores of Loch Ness and is a very popular tourist destination. Reservations are absolutely required, and this is most important for parking. You cannot even pull into the castle parking lot without a reservation time. Admission and parking were free with our Historic Scotland membership, but advance reservations will guarantee your entry time and parking space.

The castle ruins and grounds are well-maintained and accessible. Throughout the site, posted signs provide historic background, context, and purpose for each area. We spent a couple hours at Urquhart because we walked rather slowly, and spent time reading the signs and taking photos.

Above photos: Urquhart Castle

The Visitor Center has a gift shop and cafe. Our Historic Scotland membership provided a discount on shop and cafe purchases, which was a very nice perk. We also popped into the theatre to watch a short little film on the history of Urquhart. All-in-all it was a great visit.

Above photo: Loch Ness

From Urquhart we started our drive due West following the shorelines of Loch Cluanie and Loch Duich. About 25 minutes in to our drive, we stopped for lunch at a little roadside cafe called The Redburn Cafe. Actually, the first thing we noticed were a bunch of hairy coos grazing in a field. We stopped to take photos and then noticed the cafe, which by the way, sells food for the hairy coos that is farmer-approved.

Above photos: Hairy Coo and The Redburn Cafe

Our total drive time from Urquhart Castle to Eilean Donan Castle was just over an hour, not including the time we took for hairy coos and lunch. The drive was pleasant and scenic. Watch out for cyclists though. There aren’t any bike lanes and they are tricky to pass on single-lane roads.

Eilean Donan is another very popular tourist spot. It is probably one of the most famous and recognizable castles in all of Scotland, except perhaps Edinburgh Castle. The castle is privately owned, so there aren’t any membership cards that will circumvent the admission fee. The good news is that pre-booking is not required. So, you can just show up and enjoy!

Above photos: Eilean Donan Castle

The interiors definitely had a castle-vibe, as opposed to the refinery of the other historic houses we had visited. Photography was not permitted inside the castle so you’ll have to take my word for it. Of course, the outside of the castle and the location, on an island at a point where three lochs meet, is what takes your breath away.

Above photo: Eilean Donan Castle

We still had a bit of driving ahead of us. It was another hour or so from Eilean Donan to our stopping point for the night at the Cullin Hills Hotel near Portree on the Isle of Skye. Crossing the Skye Bridge felt like another big change. Loch Alsh is on the left side of the car and the Inner Sound on the other as you cross over to Skye. Immediately on the other side of the bridge, it starts feeling quite a bit more remote.

Above photo: Isle of Skye, Scotland

There are a few small areas where you can get fuel and groceries. When you see what you need, best to stop then and there because it could be a while until you have another opportunity. Portree is the bustling metropolis on the Isle of Skye. There were loads of fellow adventurers and hikers passing through and filling up their camper vans with provisions.

The Cullin Hills Hotel was the diametric opposite of a camper van. This gorgeous place was our favorite stay during our entire trip. It was also the exact mid-point of our trip when we were most in need of some proper luxury. If there is one thing that Jason and I can agree on, it is a cush hotel with great amenities.

Above photo: View of the bay from the Cullin Hills Hotel

That evening, we had dinner down at the water front at a restaurant called Sea Breezes. You’ll want to make reservations for this place because it has a reputation for incredibly fresh seafood and produce – and it fills up. We got a massive platter of salmon, mussels, and scallops to share and it was finger licking good.

Above photos: Portree, Isle of Skye

And then we were truly ready to flop on our big, fluffy bed back at the hotel and rest up for the start of our 2-days of adventuring on the Isle of Skye.

Next up: Continue reading about our Highlands road trip as we explore waterfalls, rock formations, and epic views on the incredible Isle of Skye.

To continue to Days 6 & 7: Isle of Skye, click here.