Ireland

Eight-Day Road Trip through the Emerald Isle of Ireland

A few years ago, my husband and I took eight full days to discover the natural beauty and incredible sites of Southern Ireland. It was a familiar itinerary that is often recommended in order to see some of the best highlights of the country, with a few smaller hidden gems thrown in for good measure.

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If you are considering a trip to Ireland, this guide will provide you with an overview of the best stops, places to see, where to stay, and some things we learned along the way. For more details on each location, I have linked to in-depth posts containing more photos and travel tips.

Our 8-day road trip starting in Dublin and ending on the west coast near Galway was as follows:

• Day 1: Dublin – Trinity College, Temple Bar
• Day 2: Dublin – St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle, Christchurch
• Day 3: Kilkenny, Kilfane Waterfall and Glen, Waterford
• Day 4: Waterford, Rock of Cashel, Cahir Castle, Jameson Experience, Cork
• Day 5: Blarney Castle, Killarney, Ring of Kerry, Kenmare
• Day 6: Muckross House, Adare, Limerick
• Day 7: Cliffs of Moher, Dunguaire Castle, Galway
• Day 8: Kylemore Abbey, Bunratty Castle

Some things you may be wondering before getting into the trip itinerary are:

Day 1: Dublin – Trinity College, Temple Bar

Like most international flights coming from the US, we arrived in Dublin early in the morning. We headed directly to our hotel to drop off our luggage and have it stored for us so we could enjoy the day ahead hands-free. We stayed at The Shelbourne Hotel, a Marriott Autograph Collection property and historical landmark in the heart of Dublin.

Our day was divided between four major areas: (1) Trinity College & The Book of Kells, (2) Temple Bar, (3) National Library and National Museum, and (4) St. Stephen’s Green.

Above photo: The Old Library, Trinity College

Above photo: Temple Bar

Above photos: Architecture at The National Library of Ireland (left) and the Cross of Cong at the National Museum of Ireland – Archeology (right)

Above photo: St. Stephen’s Green

A complete post of our 2-days in Dublin can be found here.

Everything we wanted to see in Dublin was within walking distance of our hotel. Choosing centrally-located accommodations makes a big difference when you are strictly on foot, as we were. Our total walking time between all of the places we visited was under an hour and we saw a lot!

After a very full day of incredible sight-seeing, it was finally time to check-in to our hotel. But, before we could flop down on our a big cushy bed (which is 100% what we really wanted to do), we dragged ourselves out the door again to find some dinner.

I can’t even remember the name of the pub we settled on, but I do remember this little lane that had an art installation of multi-colored umbrellas. Dublin is a city bursting with color. We loved all of the bright art and textiles, the colorfully painted shops and tiled interiors. Who knew?

Above photo: The Umbrellas, Anne’s Lane

Day 2: Dublin – St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle, Christchurch

We were feeling pretty good for our second day in Dublin after sleeping off our jet lag. Our itinerary for the day included (1) St. Patrick’s Cathedral, (2) Dublin Castle, (3) The Brazen Head, and (4) Christchurch Cathedral.

Above photos: St. Patrick’s Cathedral

Above photos: Christchurch Cathedral

Above photos: Dublin Castle

Above photos: The Brazen Head

As we were walking back to our hotel for a pre-dinner break, we passed by the Gaiety Theater, a historic performing arts venue on King Street South. Riverdance was on and the box office still had some tickets available. It was an opportunity impossible to pass up. We bought tickets and has the most incredible night out. I’m so glad we decided to be spontaneous and take in the show. It was truly one of my favorite highlights of our time in Ireland.

Above photo: The Gaeity Theater

Day 3: Kilkenny, Kilfane Waterfall and Glen, Waterford

Following our check-out from The Shelbourne, we Uber-ed over to Enterprise West Dublin pickup our rental car for the remainder of our time in Ireland. In hindsight, I’m glad we had a smallish compact car because the country roads are narrow, especially when you are facing oncoming traffic.

On to Kilkenny! Kilkenny is a medieval town located about an hour and fifteen minutes southwest of Dublin. Once you get out of the Dublin metro area, the driving is a piece of cake. The major things to see in Kilkenny are Kilkenny Castle, the Medieval Mile ( the walk between castle and cathedral), and St. Canice’s Cathedral.

Above photo: Kilkenny Castle

Above photos: St. Canice’s Cathedral

Kilkenny is a cute little town with winding lanes lined with shops selling pottery, paintings and jewelry. We found a cozy restaurant for lunch on St. Kieran’s Street called The Playwright that serves up locally-sourced Irish favorites, as well as burgers and sandwiches. And then we were off again.

Above photos: Kilkenny

Our next stop was the very special Kilfane Glen and Waterfall. It is only open for a short time during the summer months (July and August). We felt very lucky that the timing worked out for us and highly recommend making this stop if it aligns with your dates.

Above photos: Kilfane Glen and Waterfall

A complete post of our day in Kilkenny and Kilfane can be found here.

Our drive for the day ended in Waterford. Many Ireland road trip itineraries that we looked at did not include Waterford. However, it has so much to offer, we wanted to make sure we fit it into our plans. Immediately after checking-in to the The Fitzwilton Hotel, we hurried over to the House of Waterford for our behind-the-scenes tour of this iconic glassmaker.

Above photos: House of Waterford Crystal

A complete post of our day in Waterford can be found here.

Day 4: Waterford, Rock of Cashel, Cahir Castle, Jameson Experience, Cork

Waterford is a coastal town that was founded by Vikings in the 9th century, making it the oldest city in Ireland. You won’t want to leave here without exploring the Viking Triangle, Waterford Treasures Museum, and Reginald’s Tower. The exhibits are fascinating! I learned so much and was astounded by how well the buildings and artifacts have been preserved. Even if you aren’t a history buff, it’s pretty cool stuff.

Above photos: The Viking Triangle and River Suir in Waterford

It was about an hour drive from Waterford to our first stop of the day, Rock of Cashel. We LOVED this cluster of medieval buildings. It is exactly what you imagine when you think of an old hilltop castle.

We purchased the add-on ticket to tour Cormac’s Chapel, which contains the only surviving Romanesque frescoes in Ireland. The exterior, cemetery grounds, and 12th century sarcophagus are spectacular, along with the views of the town and countryside below. We spent at least an hour at the castle and then stopped for lunch in town.

Above photos: Rock of Cashel

Our next castle stop was just a blip down the road, Cahir Castle. The setting along the River Suir is very picturesque. The castle itself feels like a military fortress. Once you are inside the castle walls, there is sense of protection from the outside world. It is easy to understand why the castle was considered to be on the cutting edge of defensive design.

Above photo: Cahir Castle

A complete post of our day in County Tipperary visiting Rock of Cashel and Cahir Castle can be found here.

The leg from Cahir to Middleton, the location of the Jameson Whiskey Distillery, was about an hour’s drive. We arrived early enough to walk Main Street and the historic town center of Midleton prior to our fully guided tour around the original Midleton Distillery. The tour was fun and informative – and a nice change of pace from our castle hopping. We ended our experience with some whiskey tasting and shopping at the distillery shop, picking up a couple limited editions to take back home with us.

Above photo: The Jameson Experience, Midleton Distillery

Midleton is just 25 minutes outside of the city of Cork, our ending point for the day. We arrived a little on the late side to explore the city properly. There are quite a few things to see and do in Cork. Sadly, we just had time to walk along the river and have dinner. Dinner was fabulous though! We ate at Cornstore, known for great steaks and seafood – and a very vibrant atmosphere.

We stayed the night at The River Lee. This property was perfectly located in the center of Cork, so we were able to make the most of the very limited time we had here.

A complete post of our time in County Cork can be found here.

Above photo: Cork

Day 5: Blarney Castle, Killarney, Ring of Kerry, Kenmare

I think everyone who comes to Ireland looks forward to visiting Blarney Castle and kissing the famous Blarney Stone. It sounds a little unsanitary, but if you are up-to-date on your shots, it is a fun thing to do. According to legend, kissing the stone endows the kisser with the gift of the gab. 

Blarney Castle and Gardens are beautifully maintained. The castle is strictly a ruin. There aren’t even floors, just the stone shell.

Above photos: Blarney Castle

The gardens are stunning and cover over 60 acres. There are many walking paths and special gardens and arboretums. Being there during the summer, everything was lush and in full bloom. We definitely spent more time walking through the gardens and park-like grounds than we did inside the castle.

Above photo: Blarney Castle Gardens

More photos from our visit to Blarney Castle and Gardens can be found here.

We had about an hour and a half drive from Blarney Castle to Killarney, where we stopped for lunch. The town of Killarney was a bit crowded. We hit some traffic congestion coming in and finding a place to park. Main Street, New Street, and High Street are lined with shops and restaurants to explore while you devour a Murphy’s ice cream cone.

Above photos: Killarney

From Killarney, we launched our grand tour of the Ring of Kerry. Most travel guides recommend driving the Ring of Kerry or the Dingle Peninsula (or both). We opted for the Ring of Kerry, which was about a two and half hour drive not including stops, starting in Killarney and ending in Kenmare.

A complete post of our drive around the Ring of Kerry can be found here.

Above photos: Attractions along the Ring of Kerry

We ended our day at the Park Hotel Kenmare, practically a destination on its own. This Relais & Chateaux property is a historic hotel dating to 1897. The grounds are perfectly situated overlooking Kenmare Bay. After our dinner in The Dining Room, we had a peaceful stroll through the gardens and down to the water. This was my favorite hotel in Ireland. I would love to go back and spend more time, as we really hardly had time to explore the grounds and the little town of Kenmare.

Above photos: The Park Hotel Kenmare

Day 6: Muckross House, Adare, Limerick

Since we spent most of the day prior in the car, I wasn’t really looking forward to more driving. However, the drive north from Kenmare through Molls Gap and the Killarney National Park was breathtaking! The hills were green and dotted with sheep. We stopped several times to take in the scenic views. It was a little misty when we started out, but gradually the clouds lifted.

Above photos: Killarney National Park

Our first stop of the day was Muckross House. Quite different from the castle ruins we had seen thus far, this 19th century Victorian home is fully restored inside and out. Visit is by guided tour only and no photography was permitted. However, I can testify that it was beautiful:)

Above photo: Muckross House

While we were awaiting our tour starting time, we took a walk through the extensive grounds situated on the shores of Muckross Lake. I’m a fan of formal gardens, and loved the thoughtfully planned out themed gardens surrounding the house, as well as planters overflowing with summer blooms.

Above photos: Muckross House Gardens

A complete post of our drive around the Ring of Kerry including Killarney National Park and Muckross House can be found here.

The drive from Muckross House to Adare was about an hour and twenty minutes. It wasn’t the most interesting and it had started to rain. When we arrived in Adare, we dug out our umbrellas and went in search of a cafe.

We stopped in the Holy Trinity Abbey Church and admired the interior decoration and timber roof. Founded before 1272, the restored monastery is now the Roman Catholic parish church in the centre Adare.

Above photos: Adare Trinitarian Abbey converted to The Holy Trinity Catholic Church

Even in the drizzle, Adare is the prettiest, most postcard-perfect Irish town. Its main street is lined with thatched cottages and quaint little shops. We didn’t have the best weather for exploring the sites here, including Adare Castle and the Franciscan Friary. But, I believe one could easily fill an afternoon or more here.

Above photos: Adare Cottages

A complete post of our time in Adare and Limerick can be found here.

It was a very short twenty minute drive from Adare up to Limerick. We stayed at the No. 1 Perry Square Hotel. This hotel was my favorite thing about Limerick. It is located in the Georgian Quarter and is surrounded by great architecture. I will go on record saying that Limerick was not our favorite stop and, if pressed for time, would skip. That being said, Limerick has a few really nice points-of-interest, such as St. John’s Castle and St. Mary’s Cathedral.

Above photos: King John’s Castle, Limerick

Unfortunately, we arrived in Limerick towards the end of the day and nearly everything was already closed up. The city was also oddly empty of tourists. We kept asking ourselves, “Where is everyone?” I think we just hit it at an odd time of day.

The cemetery outside of St. Mary’s Cathedral was quite poignant. The church was closed, so we took time to walk through the cemetery. I enjoy visiting old cemeteries and walking in between the ornate headstones with poetic inscriptions. St. Mary’s was filled with so much history and hints into the lives of the Irish people. We found it so interesting.

Above photos: St. Mary’s Cathedral Cemetery

Day 7: Cliffs of Moher, Dunguaire Castle, Galway

We were up and checked-out of our hotel at dawn for our 1-hour drive to the Cliffs of Moher. With the luck of the Irish rubbing off on us, we beat the crowds and tourist buses! This incredible spot is a huge draw and we knew visiting early in the morning would make a difference in our parking options and ticket queue. It was definitely worth the effort!

Above photo: The Cliffs of Moher

A complete post of our time at The Cliffs of Moher can be found here.

As the buses were starting to roll in, we wrapped up our visit and hit the road again. Our plan was to arrive in Galway for lunch – and it was nearly a three hour drive. En route we spontaneously decided to stop at Dunguaire Castle. It is literally on the side of the main road.

Dunguaire Castle was a very worth-while 30-minute diversion. The castle and its setting on the shore of Galway Bay is insanely picturesque. It does not take long at all to tour the inside of the fortress and take some deep breaths looking out over the water. If your itinerary takes you on this route, be sure to plan a stop at this gem.

Above photos: Dunguaire Castle on Galway Bay

We arrived in Galway as planned and fell in love with it right away. Galway has a really fun, chill vibe. You can smell fish and chips in the air as you walk down the main drag in the center of town. The shops are brightly painted and the atmosphere was a super festive summertime bustle.

Above photos: Galway City

A complete post of our time in Galway can be found here.

While in Galway, we stayed at The Hardiman Hotel (formerly called The Meyrick) on the famous Eyre Square. This was another hotel win. The location was amazing – just a little off of the main busy streets, but still close enough. The hotel dates back to 1852 and has quite the impressive list of former guests. Our room was beautiful!

Above photos: The Hardiman Hotel, Galway

Day 8: Kylemore Abbey, Bunratty Castle

For our final full day in Ireland we drove to our furthest northwest point in Connemara County, Kylemore Abbey & Victorian Walled Garden. In getting there and back we drove through a very different landscape in the Connemara National Park. It felt very remote. Just us and the sheep on the roads.

A complete post of our time in Connemara can be found here.

Kylemore Abbey is a bit out-of-the-way. But, after seeing photos of it online, it was a high priority to see it on this trip. Most places that are harder to get to reward you in the end. This ticked off a line on my bucket list and I cannot convey how extraordinary this site was.

Above photos: Kylemore Abbey and Victorian Walled Gardens

Our visit to Kylemore and the drive through Connemara took up the majority of our day. As we backtracked towards our departure airport in Shannon, we made one last castle stop at Bunratty Castle and Folk Park.

Bunratty was a fun visit. The castle and surrounding folk park are ideal for school visits and large tour groups. The rooms in the castle has been staged to help you imagine life back then. Likewise, the folk park really put your mind in the space and lifestyle of medieval times.

Above photo: Bunratty Castle

Of course, we stopped at Durty Nellie’s for a brew because it is one of those things you just have to do while you are in the area.

Above photos: Durty Nelly’s Bar & Restaurant

We spent our last night at Bunratty Castle Hotel. Cute hotel in a convenient location. We were glad to have a space to repack our luggage with all the purchases we made along the way. As we shopped our way through Ireland, most of our purchases ended up stowed in the trunk of the car, along with layers of heavier clothing that we shed. It’s always an engineering exercise figuring out how to get it all back.

Our flight the next morning back to Texas was out of Shannon Airport, close to Limerick. We did some cost comparisons of traveling back to Dublin for the full round trip vs. flying back out of a different airport. The cost difference was negligible, so we opted to save ourselves the extra drive and flew out of Shannon.

Planning a trip to Ireland? Please let me know if you have any questions! If you are interested in reading more about a specific area on our itinerary, please follow the links to the in-depth posts highlighted in blue.

Thank you for reading my post! Please feel free to add friendly comments or questions below!