Hogmanay in Edinburgh

Ringing in the New Year in Edinburgh, Scotland

Hogmanay is the Scottish word for the last day of the year, similar to what American’s call New Year’s Eve. Except in Scotland it isn’t just one evening. It is a three-day celebration from December 30th through January 1st.

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I’m more of a New Year’s Eve-Eve party person. We traditionally celebrate a day early just because I prefer to stay at home and watch the ball drop from the warmth and safety of my living room. However, I got the idea in my head one year that it might be fun to go somewhere for New Years’ with my boys to celebrate in a really big, fun way. That’s how this started.

There are a handful of places around the world that are iconic locations for New Year’s celebrations, such as New York City, Vienna, Paris, Tokyo, Sydney, etc. Edinburg may not be a place that immediately comes to mind. But, never in my life have I ever had so much fun. Scotland knows how to throw a party!

Here a quick links to each of the sections of this post:

• Where to stay in Edindburgh
• How to celebrate Hogmanay
• Things to do in Edinburgh
• Where to eat in Edinburgh
• Additional information

If you are considering attending Hogmanay in Edinburgh, this post will provide you with insights and tips to plan a memorable celebration and see the top attractions in the city that literally authored Auld Lang Syne.

Our trip started out in London on Boxing Day to see the holiday light displays and tail end of Christmas festivities. We then caught the train to Edinburg for three full days of Hogmanay events and Edinburgh attractions.

Where to stay in Edinburgh

The short answer is, as close to the Royal Mile as possible. You’ll need to take an Uber or taxi from the airport, but will be within walking distance to most hotels if you arrive at the central station by train. Once settled, most of the main attractions and festival events will be in close proximity.

Keep in mind that Edinburgh Castle is on top of a hill. If you stay near the train station or near Holyrood Palace you will be walking uphill to reach the action. We stayed in the Grassmarket area at the Apex Grassmarket Hotel, which is on the other side of the hill towards the bottom of Victoria Street. So, we got our exercise that week!

Above photos: Views from our room at the Apex Grassmarket Hotel

I also recommend Fraser Suites, located adjacent to St. Giles Cathedral, and the Scotsman Hotel. These properties are much closer to the Royal Mile and will significantly reduce the amount of effort to reach the top attractions — although there will still be a lot of walking if you want to get around to explore everything Edinburgh has to offer.

Above photo: The Scotsman Hotel and Grand Cafe

** Book your accommodations early! ** Hogmanay has recently been named one of the ‘Top 100 Things to do Before You Die’ and one of the Discovery Channel’s ‘Top 25 World Travel Experiences.’ As the event continues to grow in popularity each year, it is important to make your plans early.

How to celebrate Hogmanay

Obviously, Edinburgh has a lot of historical sites and attractions you’ll want to see during your visit, which I talk about a little further down in this post. However, you’re there to celebrate Hogmanay and will want to participate in all of the super fun things going on around the city over the course of the three-day celebration.

Torchlight Processional

The Torchlight Processional is the first major event of Hogmanay. Led by a group of Vikings and drum corps, those participating in the event march down the Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace. There are a few different ways to join this event. (1) As a torch bearer in the processional (2) As a walker without a torch in the processional (3) As a spectator lining the street watching the processional.

By all means, sign up to be a torch bearer! You will be issued a ticket prior to the processional that you will trade in for your torch. Once you pick up your torch, you will go line up for the processional and await the lighting of the torches. Those at the front of the processional have their torches lit first. Then, they “pass” their flame to those behind them until it reaches the entire line of torchbearers.

Above photos: Hogmanay Torchlight Processional

Given the size of this event (it’s huge), it is amazing how orderly it all goes. It is incredible to be in the center of a massive crowd marching down a hill to the beat of drums with your torch. It is such a unique experience!

The processional ends at Holyrood Palace Park and culminates in a live music concert with fireworks. The whole evening is a total blast! This event is family friendly, especially for those with older children. Although the cobblestone Royal Mile is not stroller-friendly, we did see families attending as spectators and enjoying the fireworks at the end.

Above photos: Hogmanay Torchlight Processional

Concert in the Gardens

On the last day of the year, Edinburgh is full of locals and tourists out and about. This is an ideal day to sleep in a little and then to walk up to Calton Hill or Arthur’s Seat. As soon as dusk falls, New Town starts to fill up with folks who are ready to get the party started, the first of which is the Concert in the Gardens.

The Concert in the Gardens is an all-standing outdoor live music event akin to an amphitheater performance. It is super crowded and may not be appropriate for kids under 12. Whether or not it is worth your while to attend probably depends on your interest in the bands lined up to perform. It changes every year. So, be sure to keep an eye on the announcements.

Candlelit Concert at St. Giles’ Cathedral

Prior to craziness about to ensue on Princes Street, we attended a candlelight concert at St. Giles’ Cathedral featuring the St. Giles’ Cathedral Choir, organ, and brass orchestra. This annual concert forms part of Edinburgh’s Hogmanay celebrations, but is not as widely publicized in the line up of events.

We really enjoyed attending this low key event. Photography was not appropriate during the performance, but it was truly beautiful. If you are looking for a romantic start to the New Year or simply want to enjoy classical music in a gorgeous setting, you may want to consider adding this event to your plans. As with every other Hogmanay event, you’ll want to secure tickets in advance.

Above photos: St. Giles’ Cathedral Candlelit Concert in the Cathedral

Street Party

The Street Party is a massive outdoor party on Princes Street below Edinburgh Castle. Live DJ soundtracks, giant screens, and food stands are set-up around New Town along with costumed street performers and the famous Edinburgh Festival Wheel.

It is a total blast, but it is also a sea of people packed in to the degree that it is not easy or quick to get anywhere. Just FYI. If you aren’t there with a group of friends, you will surely make some new ones!

Above photos: Hogmanay Street Party

Just before midnight there is a countdown to the New Year followed by the singing of Auld Lang Syne. I loved this – singing this traditional song in the place where it all started along with thousands and thousands of other people from all over the world. It was awesome!

Above photos: Hogmanay Street Party and the elbow-to-elbow crowds

Fireworks

Immediately after the song concludes, there is quite possibly the best fireworks display ever. To this day, my sons tell me it was the best fireworks they’ve ever seen. I think they’re right. The fireworks are launched from Edinburgh Castle over the entire New Town area along with other pyrotechnics at the ground level. There is so much energy and excitement in the air as revelers toast their flasks and exchange kisses to welcome in the New Year. What great fun!

Loony Dook

On January 1st, Hogmanay concludes with a polar bear plunge called the New Year’s Day Loony Dook. Hundreds of very brave souls show up in crazy costumes and floatation toys to leap into the freezing water of Firth of Forth. This is not for me except as a spectator!

If you are one of the brave Dookers, the event starts out with a parade from the Hawes car park and ending at the old mole where bagpipers dramatically encourage folks on as they plunge into the water. If you are suffering from any kind of hangover, I believe this might be the cure.

The official website for Edinburgh’s Hogmanay including event details, ticket sales, and other FAQs can be found here.

Things to do in Edinburgh

While visiting Edinburgh for Hogmanay – or any other time of the year – there are a bazillion other things to see and do. Edinburgh has incredible history and a lot of it is still standing in some form allowing visitors more than a glimpse into the past. There are a few obvious attractions and a few less obvious ones that were the highlights of our visit.

Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle is most famous and prominent attraction in Edinburgh. It has been occupied since at least the Iron Age and is rich in history. Having two boys who are easily entertained by stories of kings, knights, and battles, this was a complete hit and occupied the better part of a morning.

Above photo: Edinburgh Castle

The castle is open to visitors on most days, but occasionally closes for special events. Since it is the most popular place to visit in Edinburgh, tickets commonly sell out. It is wise to purchase tickets online in advance.

Highlights of the castle complex include the views from the terrace, the Great Hall, St. Margaret’s Chapel and the One o’clock Gun. I also really enjoyed seeing the room where Queen Mary of Scots was born.

Above photos: Edinburgh Castle

The Royal Mile

Edinburgh Castle is the pinnacle of the Royal Mile. As you exit the castle, you are at the beginning of a mile-long cobblestone street that ends at Holyrood Palace. The Royal Mile is lined with other historic landmarks, shops, and restaurants. The castle combined with exploring the Royal Mile can easily fill an entire day.

Above photo: Exiting Edinburgh Castle to the Royal Mile ahead

Some of my favorite stops along this historic street included the many closes. A close is a narrow, winding alley that branches off the Royal Mile. These streets were often named after a memorable resident or a cluster of tradesmen. You can duck down these little corridors to access courtyards, buildings, and/or epic views. Each one is a little different.

Above photos: Close entrances on the Royal Mile

One of the most famous closes to visit is Mary King’s Close. The Edinburgh City Chambers building was built over the close, and as a result it is now one of the best preserved 17th century streets. You can take a guided tour of the close, which is otherwise closed off to the public. Photography was not allowed, but it is remarkable and so interesting!

Above photo: The Edinburgh City Chambers building that was built over Mary King’s Close

Above photos: Sites and hidden gems along the Royal Mile

St. Giles’ Cathedral

Another important historic landmark along the Royal Mile is St. Giles’ Cathedral. The cathedral was founded in 1124 by King David I and has been a working church for almost 900 years.  It is still used for high profile royal events, including, Her Majesty the Queen lying in rest and the Service of Thanksgiving to mark the Coronation of King Charles III.

Visiting the cathedral is free of charge; donation boxes are available for those who would like to contribute. It is open most days, but it is a good idea to check the Events Calendar for any special programming and/or closures.

Above photos: St. Giles’ Cathedral

Greyfriars Bobby

At the intersection of Candlemakers Row and George IV Bridge there is a little statue of dog named Bobby. The statue memorializes the story of the Skye Terrier who spent 14 years guarding the grave of his owner, John Gray. John was a night watchman for the Edinburgh Police Force who passed away in 1858 from tuberculosis. After he was buried in Greyfriars Kirkland, Bobby refused to be separated from his owner’s grave.

My boys loved hearing this story and visiting Bobby’s statue. We had dinner at Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar afterwards. You can also visit John and Bobby’s graves in the church cemetery located just a few steps away at the end of Greyfriars Street.

Above photo: Greyfriars Bobby

The Vennel Steps

The Vennel Steps are a steep set of stairs in a narrow passageway that connect Lauriston Place in the Grassmarket area with West Port. What makes this stairway to special is the amazing view of Edinburgh Castle that it offers those climb it. This is a very quiet area, but you’ll likely run into other people who are there for the same reason. The views are breath-taking and afford you to really take in the grandness of the castle and the rock upon which it is built.

Above photo: View of Edinburgh Castle from the Vennel Steps

Victoria Street

Victoria Street was built between 1829 and 1834 in an effort to provide better access to the Grassmarket and Lawnmarket areas from the Royal Mile. Today it is one of the most photographed spots in Edinburgh due to its pretty colored shopfronts that line the curved cobblestone street.

The buildings along Victoria Street are just as interesting as the street itself. The architecture is considered ‘Old Flemish’, but the details often reflect the nature of the business that originally occupied the space. Since we were staying in Grassmarket, we walked up and down this street many, many times and each time discovered something new.

If Victoria Street gives you Diagon Alley vibes, you aren’t alone. While JK Rowling has never explicitly said that she took inspiration from this street, it sure seems possible. There are a couple shops along here, such as Museum Context and The Great Wizard, that cater to Harry Potter fans.

Above photos: Victoria Street

Calton Hill

Access to the trail leading up Calton Hill is located at the end of Princes Street – and it is totally free btw. You can get there in about 10 minutes from the Royal Mile even through it seems father away. If you are short on time and can’t hike to Arthur’s Seat, at least make time for this. You won’t regret it!

The views of Edinburgh from Calton Hill are quintessential. The city is below you, the Balmoral Clock Tower is in front of you, and Edinburgh Castle is behind it all.

Above photos: Views of Edinburgh from Calton Hill (top and left) and Arthur’s Seat (right)

In addition to the views, Calton Hill is also the location of multiple Scottish monuments and buildings. Monuments include the National Monument, Dugald Stewart Monument, Nelson’s Monument, the Old Royal High School, Robert Burns Monument, Political Martyrs’ Monument and the City Observatory.

Above photo: The National Monument

On our way back from Calton Hill we stopped by Old Calton Cemetery on Princes Street. There are many notable historic figures buried here, along with the Scottish-American Soldiers Monument and the Martyrs of Reform Monument.

Above photos: Old Calton Cemetery and the Scottish-American Soldiers Monument

The Scott Monument

Visible from Castlehill and just about every other hill in Edinburgh is the Scott Monument. It has a dominating presence on Princes Street amongst all the shops and gardens.

This iconic Edinburgh landmark was built in 1840 in honor of its prestigious literary figure, Sir Walter Scott. The base or first floor of the monument houses a museum where you can learn more about the history of monument and the life and works of Sir Walter Scott.

Above photos: The Scott Monument

The National Museum of Scotland

The National Museum of Scotland is a wonderful complex of natural history, science, cultural artifacts, art, design, and Scottish history exhibits — all in one place:). With such diverse collections there is really something for everyone.

The museum has two distinct buildings. One is the former Museum of Scotland with collections related to Scottish history and antiquities. The other is the former Scottish Royal Museum with collections related to art, science, natural history, and world cultures.

We especially enjoyed the Scottish Royal Museum with its vaulted center court, cast iron Victorian railings, and oversized menagerie. The transportation exhibits in the Science and Technology galleries were probably the boys’ favorite. This was also a great activity to get us out of the cold for a bit!

Above photos: National Museum of Scotland

Where to eat in Edinburgh

Edinburgh is the best foodie city in the United Kingdom. There are foods in Scotland that you cannot get anywhere else in the world, such as Scotland’s famous national dish of haggis, neeps and tatties. Also worth trying is Aberdeen Angus beef and Scottish salmon. I’m not brave enough to try haggis, but I definitely had my fill of salmon. I’m probably not the best person to create a food guide for Edinburgh, but I’m happy to share the places where we ate and enjoyed the most.

Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar

We had dinner at Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar following our visit to the Greyfriars Bobby statue. At the time, I didn’t know anything about it, but it looked inviting from the outside. It turned out to be a really nice choice for our first night in Edinburgh. The restaurant is part of the Nicholson’s Pub chain that operates multiple pubs throughout Edinburgh.

We loved the moody, warm interior. It reminded me of an old world library or lounge. The Nicholson Pubs share very similar menus from location to location — classic Scottish dishes. We all ordered something we’d never tried before and it was a great way to kick off our deep dive into Scottish culture and traditions.

Above photo: Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar

Hula

Hula is a little breakfast & brunch eatery located in the Grassmarket area on West Bow. It started out as a juice bar and evolved into something much more. Their menu features really healthy options like Scottish oats, smoothie bowls, avocado toast, and full on breakfast. The interior is decorated like Hawaii. Just the mental adjustment you need coming in from the cold!

Above photos: Hula

The Queen’s Arms

The Queen’s Arms is the perfect Scottish pub. With book-lined walled and cozy red booths, we felt all tucked in for some serious comfort food. The homemade dishes are made with locally sourced produce. They are most well-known for their Sunday roast, which you can feast on while watching the game and sipping on handpicked cask ales and craft beers.

Located on Frederick’s Street in New Town, this is the perfect spot to snug in for a late lunch after some shopping or a morning hike on Calton Hill. Reservations are recommended and can be made here.

Above photo: The Queens Arms

The Dome

The Dome is a wonderful fine dining restaurant that I highly recommend. I went there on a later trip to Edinburgh with my husband. But, I thought I would also mention it here because it is one of the most festively decorated restaurants during the holiday season. It is a gorgeous and very special place for a memorable meal.

Above photos: The Dome Restaurant

Mash Bar

Makars Mash Bar is one of Edinburgh’s independent restaurants featuring Scottish comfort food while supporting local suppliers (plus they grow their own mushrooms downstairs). It is located on North Bank Street, a little hidden if you don’t know its there. This is one restaurant where I know I’m not alone in my opinion that it ranks up there among Edinburgh’s best. The food is amazing! We loved our entrees & mash, as well as the cozy atmosphere. Reservations can be made here.

Above photos: Makars Mash Bar

Oink

Oink was a farmer’s market food vendor, but they had such great success that they ended up opening permanent locations in Edinburgh — currently three locations. We ate at the one on Victoria Street. Every day they roast a hog and then sell pulled pork sandwiches from 11 am until the meat runs out. People were literally lined up at 11 am to order their sandwich at the take-away window. You can smelly the piggy goodness as soon as you turn the corner onto the street. It’s hard to resist. We caved early.

Above photo: Oink

Southern Cross Cafe

The Southern Cross Cafe was a favorite breakfast spot we found. Well, it’s not that hard to find. It’s located right off the Royal Mile on Cockburn Street. It is always busy and a popular place to grab a hot chocolate, dessert, or fluffy pancakes. They have plenty of healthy options, but their desserts are what tempted us initially. If you have a sweet tooth, this is a great place to satisfy any sudden cravings.

The Elephant House

This little cafe on George IV Bridge found modest fame as the place where JK Rowling spent time while writing the Harry Potter books. Even if you aren’t a Potter fan, this cozy spot is great place for early morning caffeine fixes and/or late night desserts.

Additional information

Following my trip to Edinburgh for Hogmanay with my boys, I went back in the Fall with my husband. We spent just one quick night in Edinburgh and then set off on an epic road trip through the Scottish Highlands. Scotland is easy to fall in love with and the Isle of Skye ranks up there as one of my favorite places on Earth.

Read an overview of our road trip through the Scottish Highlands here.

If you have a car or don’t mind taking a bus or Uber outside of the Old Town, I also recommend a visit to the Colinton Tunnel in West Edinburgh.

I’m sure all the locals just consider it a nice place to walk the dogs, but it is a wonderful public art installation that we completely loved.

Above photo: The Colinton Tunnel

My photo gallery of the Colinton Tunnel can be found here.

What to buy in Scotland

And, finally, I’ve put together a guide on the top souvenirs to buy in Scotland. If you are keen to do a little shopping along the Royal Mile or other areas you are visiting in Scotland, click here to see what came home in my suitcase:)

Thank you for reading my post! Please feel free to add friendly comments or questions below!