O’ahu, Hawaii

Exploring the Island of O’ahu, Hawaii

The beautiful Hawaiian islands are a bucket list destination for just about everyone. Interestingly, each of the islands is quite different and stands-out in some special way. Determining your interests and the vacation vibe you’re going for may help narrow down precisely where you’d like to spend your time.

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Having previously been to the laid-back and rugged landscape of Kauai, I decided I wanted to spend some time on one of the more glamorous and busy beach-scene islands, and O’ahu fit the description.

Above photo: Waikiki Beach, O’ahu, Hawaii

O’ahu is home to Honolulu and the famous Waikiki Beach where many movies have been filmed over the years. The beach is lined with posh resorts, high end shopping, and incredible restaurants. However, once outside of the city, there is no shortage of places to get away from the crowds and enjoy nature and peaceful beaches.

Getting to Hawaii is a long-haul flight no matter where you live. We were incredibly lucky that Hawaiian Airlines started non-stop service from Austin recently so at least that made the travel duration as concise as possible. Another perk was the time zone change made it seem like I didn’t lose the entire day to travel.

I do recommend renting a car whilst in O’ahu. It is possible to get around by taxi, but if you really want to be free to explore every corner of the island like we did, a car is essential.

Each day of our 6-day itinerary focused on a different area where we hopped around and saw the highlights that we thought we’d enjoy the most. We didn’t do everything there is to do because Jason and I also like to just breathe and take things in. We struck a nice balance of “doing something” vs. “doing nothing.”

Day 1: Arrival, Resort Check-in, Waikiki Beach

There are so many hotels and resorts in Honolulu and the Waikiki Beach area for every type of traveler. My husband and I have long been fans of staying at places that have some history or a bit of a story to tell. We also love a cushy stay with luxury amenities. With that in mind, we chose The Royal Hawaiian, also known as the Pink Palace of the Pacific, a Marriott Luxury Collection Resort property.

I fell in love with this place immediately. It is lovely and charming with a glam vibe, close to the beach and shopping. There are a few restaurants and gift shops on-property, as well as a spa and fitness center. We ended up spending a fair amount of time at the resort, including the Waikiki Beach area right in front of the property.

Above photos: The Royal Hawaiian

A couple little tips: (1) There is no alcohol or beach service on Waikiki. You can order drinks and lunch at the Mai Tai Bar, but cannot take your booze down to your chaise lounge. (2) Umbrellas and lounge chairs are rented on a first-come-first serve basis. The pink umbrellas managed by the hotel sit back on the beach close to the property. The brown umbrellas sit closer to the water. So, if you want an unobstructed ocean view, arrive early in the morning to secure your spot. It is yours for the entire day and you can come-and-go without worrying about someone else claiming your seat.

Above photo: Waikiki Beach looking towards Diamond Head

There are a ton of restaurants to choose from in the Waikiki area. We planned dinner each evening so we could try a good variety of food specialties, fine vs. casual, locations, etc. For our first night, we ate at one of reknowned chef Roy Yamaguchi’s restaurants (he has several), Eating House 1849.

Above photos: Dinner at Roy Yamaguchi’s Eating House 1849

Day 2: Windward Coast

The Windward Coast of O’ahu refers to the eastern area and beaches. The drive from Waikiki to Lanikai Beach, one of the best beaches on the Windward Coast, is about 40 – 50 minutes depending on traffic in Honolulu.

En route to Lanikai Beach, we first stopped at the Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout. This historical landmark is known for panoramic views of the sheer Koʻolau cliffs and Windward Coast. We had some low clouds in the morning, but were still able to see clear to the ocean.

Above photos: Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout

From the lookout, we drove to the town of Kailua. There are a few shopping plazas where you can grab lunch and provisions for your day on the beach. We discovered the world’s best ahi poke at the local Foodland grocery store. We purchased a couple different varieties, along with some ice, and filled the packable cooler we brought from home (an insulated lunch bag, but a little bigger). From there, the beach is just a few more minutes down the road.

Parking by Lanikai Beach can be tricky, but we arrived early and didn’t have a problem finding a spot on the side of the road just opposite the trail head for the Ka’iwa Ridge Trail (also known as the Lanikai Pillbox Hike) that leads up to one of several “pillboxes” scattered around the island.

You may hear or read about pillbox hikes on O’ahu. There is more than one pillbox hike – keep that in mind because it can get confusing. The pillboxes were originally built in 1943 as observation stations, but are now abandoned and completely covered in graffiti.

The Ka’iwa Ridge Trail is moderately challenging due to the steep terrain. It took us a little over an hour to hike up and back – not including the time we spent at the top enjoying the view. Some of the other people we passed had trekking poles, which seemed like a good idea (and inspired me to buy a set when I got back home). The views are ah-maze-ing!

Above photos: The Ka’iwa Ridge Trail & Pillbox

Above photo: View of the Mokulua Islands

Following our hike, we swung by our rental car to switch from tennis shoes to flip flops and to grab our beach bag and lunch cooler before wandering down the little access lane to the beach.

Lanikai Beach is rated as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. It is. The sand is so fine and the water is turquoise blue as far as the eyes can see. Those two little land masses in the photo above are the Mokulua Islands and are a popular kayaking spot.

Above photo: Lanikai Beach

We had a gorgeous afternoon to relax on the beach, but there really isn’t much to do there besides enjoy the view. Once we had enough sun, we packed up and took a leisurely drive to the Byodo-In Temple, a a non-practicing Buddhist temple that was built in 1968 to commemorate the 100 year anniversary of the first Japanese immigrants to Hawaii.

Above photos: Byodo-In Temple

As we started our way back towards Honolulu, we made one more stop at the Hoʻomaluhia Botanical Garden. It is possible to drive through the grounds, but you’ll get much more out of your visit if you park and walk some of the trails. We didn’t set aside the time to do this, but we stopped by the Visitor’s Center to learn a little more about this protected area and the unique flora and fauna found here. There is a simple driving map that you can pick-up to help identify some of the special gardens and trees.

Once back at our resort and cleaned up, we headed out for our dinner reservations at Duke’s. This famous restaurant on the beach is totally worth the hype. The staff was so friendly and the food was amazing. Be sure to make reservations and request a table that looks out to the beach.

Above photo: Surf boards at Waikiki, O’ahu

Day 3: Northshore

If there is any place on O’ahu where I would have enjoyed spending more time, it’s the Northshore. This area is SO FUN! There are so many different beaches, activities, food trucks, and shops. It is far less crowded than Waikiki and seems to be favored more by the surfer-types and locals.

But first, Dole Whip. On our way to the Northshore (about an hour drive from Waikiki), we stopped by the Dole Plantation in Wahiawa to see the pineapple fields and try the famous Dole Whip. The gift shop and garden tour are fun and interesting. It was a quick visit for us, but we were so glad we did it!

Above photos: Dole Plantation

Our next stop was the food trucks along Kamehameha Highway in Haleiwa (just before the bend in the road that goes on to the beaches). This little park-like stop has a half-dozen or more food trucks where you can grab lunch, fresh fruit, or a smoothie. I had a plate of shrimp scampi from Giovanni’s . Once I polished that off, I also got a coconut to-go.

Above photos: Food trucks

The Northshore beaches are really varied. Our afternoon of beach-hopping included Laniakea Beach (also known as Turtle Beach because it is well-known for viewing sea turtles), Ehukai Beach (and the famous Banzai Pipeline), Shark’s Cove, and Honokawela Beach.

We were thrilled that we actually saw many, many sea turtles at Laniakea Beach. There was a beach patrol looking after the sea turtles to make sure people didn’t get too close. We didn’t swim here because the surf was rough and we really just wanted to gawk at the turtles.

Above photos: Laniakea Beach, Northshore

Ehukai Beach was just a place for us to see. Check – been there. Neither or us are surfers nor had any desire to test our swimming ability in the massive waves and rough surf. However, it was fun to watch other people do it:)

Above photo: Ehukai Beach, Northshore

Shark’s Cove is not sharky water at all. It is a rocky area with tide pools of shallow water that is great for snorkeling. Also, because the water is shallow and pooled, it was a little warmer and bearable to swim in. Bring your water shoes for this place though. Climbing over the rocks is sharp and slippery.

Above photo: Shark’s Cove, Northshore

Our favorite beach was Honokawela Beach. We went here to find the famous Banyan Tree, which we did, and it is in-fact huge. But, just a few steps past the tree, the wooded area opens up to the most serene bay. This would be the place I would go back to. It was so picturesque, quiet, and calm. Pure tropical paradise! There was hardly a soul there – so we took a long walk along the beach and enjoyed it for as long as possible.

Above photo: Banyan Tree

Above photo: Honokawela Beach

Our final stop for the day was Waimea Valley. We weren’t paying attention to the park closing times, and missed the opportunity to hike back to the falls. We were so disappointed because this is a really lush and lovely area. However, our dinner plans were at Toa Luau there at the park entrance (full disclosure: We changed out of our wet swimwear and threw on dry clothes in the car because we were a ways from our hotel).

Most luaus in Hawaii are some kind of dinner theater that includes cultural activities, a traditional dinner, and a performance with dancing and singing. If you are a tourist, do it. The staff tell corny jokes, they entertain the whole family, and it is just a fun night out. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos before deciding on Toa Luau. I really enjoyed making the leis and joining in the other demonstrations they had set-up for the guests. The only downside was that it was an hour drive back to Waikiki after the show.

Above photos: Toa Luau

There are so many other things to do in the Northshore area – ATVs, horseback riding, helicopter tours, hiking trails, etc. that we didn’t have time for. If you come to O’ahu and don’t want to stay in the Honolulu area, the Northshore would be my recommendation. The laid-back surfer culture and range of activities is a win.

Day 4: Kalakaua Ave Shopping

Right here, smack dab in the middle of our vacation week, it was my birthday:) The Birthday Girl gets to choose whatever she wants – so this was my “perfect day.” First, in the morning, I sent the hubs down to the beach to reserve our chairs and umbrella for later and to pick up our coffees from the Royal Hawaiian Bakery. We took our time in the morning, which was the best we could do since sleeping in was impossible for us. We never adjusted to the time zone change, so we were up everyday between 5 – 6 am. Not joking.

Most of the shops on Kalakaua Avenue open at 10 am. We were out the door around 9ish, so we spent the first hour just window shopping. Most of the well-known designer brands are here on this palm tree lined street, along with some souvenir shops and restaurants.

Above photos: Shopping at Valentino on Kalakaua Avenue

Tip: Many of the stores offer a “Hawaii Discount” for the asking. The discount varies from store to store. Don’t be shy to ask a shop if they offer one. The only rule is that you must purchase it while you are on-site and you cannot have it shipped by the store (i.e., you need to carry it with you).

Some stores will have a queue and/or will require an appointment. I was able to walk-in to most of them, but had to queue and wait for a salesperson at a couple, such as Hermes and Dior.

With birthday purchases in-hand, we headed back to the hotel to change into our beachwear. Jason headed out to our reserved chairs, while I headed to the Abhasa Spa for a serene, tropical massage in one of their outdoor cabanas. I love being massaged, but usually pass on them at resorts. But, since this was my “perfect day,” I decided to splurge on this experience. It was worth it:)

Above photo: Outdoor cabana at Abhasa Spa

My perfectly zen-self then joined up with my husband on Waikiki Beach. This is a really fun place to watch the surfers catch a wave and to enjoy a fun, lively beach atmosphere. We swam, re-applied sunscreen, relaxed under our umbrella, swam, re-applied sunscreen, relaxed under our umbrella….

Above photo: Waikiki Beach

Alas, the birthday ended with dinner at Herringbone on the top level of the International Market Place. This cozy restaurant served up delicious fish and seafood. The decor was super cute and food was beautifully presented.

Above photos: Dinner at Herringbone

Day 5: Southshore

Before heading east on Highway 72, we took a slight detour north to hike the trail to Manoa Falls. This is a very family-friendly little hike (less than 2 miles round trip) that takes you out to a 150 foot waterfall. It was one of our favorite activities on our entire trip (second only to birthday shopping, of course). It is so lush! Prepare to feel like you are in a jungle rainforest, mud included.

Above photos: Manoa Falls Trail

Following our hike, we stopped by another Foodland grocery store to pickup more ahi poke (we had to have it again!) for lunch later on. Jason and I have grown rather fond of our car picnics and lunch-on-the-go. We save time and money by just picking up something local to chow down on when we’re ready. We pack a little collapsable padded lunch bag or cooler in our luggage so we have something to keep our food at a safe temperature until we’re ready. Easy peasy.

The Southshore is a bit more rugged and rocky than the pristine beaches on the Windward Coast and Northshore. It is known for its hiking trails, natural formations and scenic vistas. We made a list of some of the recommended must-sees and proceeded to check them off one-by-one.

Our first main stop on the Southshore was the Hanauma Bay State Park. The key to visiting this wildlife and marine preserve is making a reservation. Admission is limited and you won’t be able to get in unless you’ve secured a spot in advance. Reservations open 2 days in advance and fill up quickly. Click here to read more about the policies and procedures to make a reservation.

Hanauma Bay is gorgeous! The water is really clear and calm, ideal conditions for swimming and snorkeling. We saw some fish, but weren’t as impressed as we were with other snorkeling locations (e.g., Trunk Bay in St. John USVI). If you end up not being able to visit Hanauma Bay, you don’t need to feel that you missed out on the most spectacular thing ever. It’s nice, just not extraordinary.

Above photo: Hanauma Bay

Tip: Snorkel gear can be rented on-site. No need to bring your own unless the mouth-piece thing grosses you out. There are no umbrellas or towels available (it’s a nature preserve not a resort), so be sure to pack a beach bag with everything you need to be comfortable.

All along the Southshore drive there are places you can pull over to enjoy the view and the rock formations. We took our time and stopped to see quite a few. The Lānaʻi Lookout was one of our favorites.

Above photos: Lānaʻi Lookout

Next was the Halona Beach Cove & Blowhole. Halona Beach is tucked away between the rocks. You’ll need decent shoes to hike down to this amazing spot. Just above the beach, a parking lot and pedestrian walkway overlook the Halona Blowhole. We hung out here for a bit while wave after wave of tour busses filed through. The blowhole is an opening in the rocky shoreline where water is pushed through creating a tall collumn of water up like a fountain. It’s a pretty cool thing to watch, if you don’t mind the crowds of this popular tourist attraction.

Above photo: Halona Beach Cove

Above photo: Halona Blowhole

If we were to have continued east, we would have reached the Makapu‘u Point Lighthouse Trail. Unfortunately, we were running short on time, so decided to turn around and make our way back to Diamond Head State Monument (with a quick stop at the Leonard’s Bakery Truck).

Above photo: The Leonard’s Bakery Trunk

To hike Diamond Head to the crater and overlook, you’ll need a reservation again. Click here to read the current policies and procedures to secure your time slot. I’ll fully admit that this was not my favorite hike. We were there in the afternoon on a hot, sunny day and it just wasn’t fun to hike up a bazillion stairs to reach the top of the crater.

That being said, the views at the top were incredible!! We had clear 360 degree views and it was breathtaking from every angle. The hike back down was easier, and I started to regret the whole thing a lot less:)

Above photos: Views from Diamond Head State Monument

We finished off the day with dinner at The Pig & The Lady in Chinatown. This was the only time we took an Uber while in O’ahu. We were advised that parking was difficult. So, rather than have that stress, we just took an Uber there and back. Oh, and our meal was sooooo good. This place is celebrity-famous and rightly so.

Above photos: Dinner at The Pig & The Lady

Day 6: Pearl Harbor and Catamaran Sail

In the morning on our last full day in O’ahu, we made our much anticipated visit to Pearl Harbor to pay respect to our fallen heroes. It is a poignant and somber site that evokes such immense gratitude.

My father used to work on building submarines for the Navy, but didn’t talk about it much, mostly due to his contract and security clearance. Even with my limited exposure, I was taken aback by the memorial at the USS Arizona and the Submarine Museum & Park.

Above photos: USS Bowfin Submarine Museum & Park

We decided to spend our last afternoon at The Royal Hawaiian Resort and Waikiki Beach, with an added catamaran outing for a final burst of fun! There are numerous sailing tours on O’ahu – some going out to Turtle Canyon for snorkeling and others just putzing around the blue waters booze-cruise style. We opted for the booze cruise sailing directly from Waikiki just steps away from our umbrella.

Above photo: Catamaran on Waikiki Beach

The look-back views were great! We enjoyed seeing our hotel and the Honolulu skyline from the water, all while sipping on Mai Tai’s and listening to music. It was just a little party on the water with a bunch of strangers who were there for the same reason. Super fun!

Above photos: Catamaran cruise off Waikiki Beach

We didn’t have any dinner reservations that evening, so we ended up just wandering around and finding a little Italian place, Il Lupino, in The Royal Hawaiian Center (the area adjacent to the resort). We ate on the patio and had a surprisingly wonderful meal at dusk just as all of the tiki torches were being lit. It was pretty darn romantic and a great way to end our week.

Above photos: Italian food at Il Lupino

We loved our stay on O’ahu and at The Royal Hawaiian. The ease of everything at the hotel and the walkability of Waikiki made for a perfect location for us. We hit a little bit of traffic going through Honolulu, but otherwise the island is extremely easy to get around and navigate.

While we were there, we were careful to be respectful of the environment and the delicate habitat of the the island. There are areas where over-tourism has certainly had an undesirable effect. However, it seemed that current travelers and beach-goers were considerate of nature and the home of the Hawaiian people.

Above photo: Banyan tree at The Royal Hawaiian

Thank you for reading my post! Please feel free to add friendly comments or questions below!