Casco Viejo – Panama City

Top Things to See in Panama City’s Old Town Neighborhood of Casco Viejo

Casco Viejo (also known as San Felipe) is the historic district of Panama City. It is a popular and vibrant area full of great restaurants and lively rooftop bars. A UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site, the district dates back to 1673, and features Colonial-era landmarks including the twin-towered Metropolitan Cathedral and the waterfront Palacio de las Garzas presidential home.

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A complete post of our 9-days in Panama can be found here.

Panama City is the most cosmopolitan capital in Central America and has a surprising skyline of architecturally impressive skyscrapers. However, the favorite area amongst tourists is the charming neighborhood of Casco Viejo. The area has been going through a renaissance over the past couple of decades, transforming crumbled buildings into hotels, restaurants, and residences. While it is still a work-in-progress, the juxtaposition of the restored buildings and the weathered shells that are still awaiting their turn, makes the area even more charming and authentic.

If you have the opportunity to come to Panama City, I highly recommend trying to stay in this area. Of course, there are some amazing hotel properties in the Punta Paitilla and Punta Pacifica neighborhoods that offer unmatched views of the skyline, as well, so you certainly have some choices! If you stay in another area, you’ll still want to set aside a day to explore the cobblestone streets of Casco Viejo.

Where to Stay in Casco Viejo

This was a tough choice. There are some very, very worthy contenders for all types of budgets. Panama City book-ended my travels in Panama, with visits to Boquete and Bocas del Toro in the middle. Because of this (and because I love a bit of proper luxury), I stayed at The American Trade Hotel on the front-end of my trip and at The Sofitel Legend on the back-end.

Above photos: The American Trade Hotel

Both of these properties are restored historical landmarks, close to other points-of-interest and walkable to/from shopping, restaurants, and bars. The Sofitel Legend was a notch above due to its location on the water, skyline views, and hotel amenities including multiple dining options and a gorgeous, infinity pool.

Above photos: The Sofitel Legend Hotel

What to do in Casco Viejo

The number one thing to do while in Casco Viejo is simply walk the narrow streets on a self-guided walking tour to see the historical landmarks. There are sign posts with maps and information to help guide you from point to point. Or, grab a walking map from the hotel concierge if you want to make sure you find them all! Casco Viejo is a small area that can easily be walked in a day at a very leisurely pace with time to shop and dine.

Teatro Nacional / National Theater

The National Theater was built on the site of an 18th century monastery. Like many buildings in Casco Viejo, it served various purposes before falling into ruin from neglect. It went through a major restoration and finally reopened in 2004. Now, it resembles a European opera house and is a cultural centerpiece for art and theater lovers.

Above photos: Teatro Nacional (National Theater)

Iglesia San Francisco de Asís / St. Francis of Assisi Church

The St. Francis of Assisi Church is a smaller church, but nonetheless impressive. It is nestled on the grounds of Bolivar Plaza between the National Theater on one side and Bolivar Palace on the other.

Above photos: Iglesia San Francisco de Asís (St. Francis of Assisi Church)

Sadly, this church has been repeatedly destroyed by fire. Although it still sits on the original foundation, it has been reconstructed as recently as 1998. Inside, the church has eight baroque-style hardwood altars that were designed by Indigenous artisans. The main altar is made up of over 400 pieces of tropical cedar that have been wonderfully painted in bright colors and is a great example of colonial art.

Above photos: Iglesia San Francisco de Asís (St. Francis of Assisi Church)

The second level showcases a nativity display and a Christmas village display – along with a breathtaking view of the altar from above.

Above photos: Iglesia San Francisco de Asís (St. Francis of Assisi Church)

Plaza Simón Bolívar / Bolivar Plaza & Palacio Bolivar / Bolivar Palace

Bolivar Plaza is a small square adjacent to St. Francis of Assisi Church and Bolivar Palace. The plaza is named after the Venezuelan general Simon Bolívar, known as the “Liberator of Latin America.” The monument that now sits at the center was erected in 1926 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Bolívar’s Amphictyonic Congress, which took place at Bolivar Palace. The palace is generally not accessible to the public, as it is now the offices of the Ministry of Foreign Relations.

Above photo: Plaza Simón Bolívar (Bolivar Plaza) (left) and Palacio Bolivar (Bolivar Palace) (right)

Iglesia San Felipe de Neri / San Felipe of Neri Church

This beautiful church is easily missed due to its rather plain exterior. However, once inside, its neoclassical architecture, ornate mosaics & detailed religious statues surprise. It was originally built in the 1680s and was one of the first churches built in Casco Viejo. While it has served many purposes over the years and been through a few fires, it remains one of the areas hidden gems. It is worth pointing out that San Felipe is one of the other names for Casco Viejo.

Above photo: Iglesia San Felipe de Neri (St. Felipe Oratory)

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de La Merced / Church of the Mercy

Church of the Mercy was built in 1680 with stone moved from Panama Viejo. It is the only church in Casco Viejo that still has its original wood roof and columns which date back over 340 years. This church also contains a museum of significant religious relics, a nativity display, and a historic archive of the birth & baptism records of Panama City.

Above photos: Iglesia Nuestra Señora de La Merced (Church of the Mercy)

Antigua Murralla Panama & Baluarte Mano De Tigre / The “Tiger’s Paw” Bastion

These ruins are all that remain from the original land-based defensive wall of Panama City. It belonged to the bulwark known as Tiger’s Paw. The fortification was built at the end of the 17th century to protect the new city, since Panama Viejo had just been destroyed by pirates. Of course, as pirates became less of a threat, there was less of a need for the walls. So, when the fortification was eventually destroyed, it was not a priority to re-build.

Above photo: Antigua Murralla Panama & Baluarte Mano De Tigre

Plaza Herrera / Herrera Plaza

Herrera Plaza was the first site we visited, located just steps outside the doors of the American Trade Hotel. The plaza was originally named Piazza del Triunfo and was used for bull fights. In 1887, it was renamed and dedicated to General Tomás Herrera in honour of his battle for independence from Colombia.

Above photo: Plaza Herrera (foreground) and The American Trade Hotel (background)

Inglesia San Jose / St. Joseph Church

St. Joseph Church was built in 1737 as an Augustinian temple. It was destroyed by fire, rebuilt, abandoned, then later used as a school chapel. Finally, it was returned to the Augustinian order in the late 19th century and restored in the early 20th century. But, the real conversation piece is the gold altar.

The altar is constructed of wood and covered in low grade gold. There are all kinds of legends surrounding this piece, but most of them have no truth. The altar was constructed in the 18th century and covered in gold in 1915.

The other showstopper at St. Joseph Church is the massive nativity display that sits off to the side of the main sanctuary. Numerous Biblical scenes surrounding the birth and life of Christ are re-created in miniature and exquisite detail.

Above photos: The Gold Altar (left) and nativity display (right) at Inglesia San Jose (St. Joseph Church)

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús / Church of the Society of Jesus

The Church of the Society of Jesus was built in the mid 1700’s as a Jesuit monastery. When the Spanish banished the Jesuits from the Colonies the church was abandoned. And then it burned down. And then it was further damaged during an earthquake. The ruins were restored in the 1980s, but it continues to undergo preservation efforts.

Above photos: Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús (Church of the Society of Jesus)

Catedral Basílica Metropolitana Santa María La Antigua / Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Santa Maria the Ancient

The Metropolitan Cathedral is the pearl of Casco Viejo, both figuratively and literally. The two towers are adorned with mother-of-pearl from the Pearl islands (fun fact) and some of the stones came from the Panamá Viejo ruins. The building of the cathedral started in the late 1600s, but it wasn’t consecrated until over 100 years later. Since then, it has been through quite a bit of turmoil, including multiple fires.

As recently as 2015, restoration of the cathedral began and it was re-opened to the public in 2019. Because it is one of the largest cathedrals in Central America and was hidden for so long, it is a popular tourist attraction. There are so many historical details and secrets to discover.

Catedral Basílica Metropolitana Santa María La Antigua

Above photos: Catedral Basílica Metropolitana Santa María La Antigua (Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Santa Maria the Ancient)

Plaza Catedral (Plaza de la Independencia) / Town Square of Casco Antiguo

The Town Square is a very pretty plaza with a gazebo band stand at its center. The area was originally used for bull fights! It is hard to visualize given that it is now surrounded by beautiful buildings, trees, and park benches. The Metropolitan Cathedral is on one side of the plaza with a couple museums lining another side.

Above photo: Plaza de la Independencia with the Museo del Canal Interoceánico de Panamá on the left and the Consejo Municipal de Panamá on the right

Museo del Canal Interoceánico de Panamá / Panama Canal Museum

The Panama Canal Museum (pictured above on the left side of the photo) is no substitute for going to see the real thing. However, the museum does offer a look back at the building of the canal with in-depth explanations of the engineering triumphs. If you get rained-out, this is a nice alternative.

Casa Góngora / Gongora House

Gongora House is one of the oldest and the only genuine colonial house in Panama City, dating to 1756. It now houses a cultural center for local artists. Its original resident was Captain Paul Gongora, a Spanish pearl merchant.

Above photo: Casa Góngora (Gongora House)

Arco Chato / The Flat Arch

The Flat Arch is a feature within the ruins of the Santo Domingo Church and Convent. The iconic stone archway once supported the choir. While much of the church was destroyed in multiple fires, the arch survived and became a popular tourist attraction. Alas, in 2003, the arch collapsed due to years of inclement weather and lack of maintenance. It has since been re-built using the original bricks.

Above photos: Arco Chato at Santo Domingo Church and Convent

Museo de Arte Religioso Colonial / Religious Colonial Art Museum

The Religious Art Museum is located in what was previously the Santo Domingo de Guzmán Chapel. The structure dates from the 18th century and has been restored. It is completely free to visit and takes just a short while to see its collections, which include wood carvings, church bells, and an altarpiece.

Above photo: Museo de Arte Religioso Colonial (Religious Colonial Art Museum)

Paseo de Las Bóvedas & Placa Conmemorativa Independencia

The Paseo de Las Bóvedas is a beautiful, historic walkway near France Square that runs along the old defensive wall of the city and above the historic Spanish dungeons. Local artisans have stalls lining the walkway so you can shop for handcrafted items while enjoying the views out to to the water.

Above photos: Paseo de Las Bóvedas and Donama Centro de Artesanias

At the end of the walkway is a landmark where Captain Raul Chevalier fired a cannon at a Colombian battleship. With the help of US Navy gunboats, the ship was forced to retreat. The event secured the independence of Panama from Colombia.

Above photos: Placa conmemorativa Independencia

Plaza de Francia / France Square & Monumento al canal de Panama / Monument of the Panama Canal

Just below the Paseo de Las Bóvedas is France Square and the Monument of the Panama Canal. It is a beautiful, park-like area that is commonly used as a backdrop for quinceanera and wedding photography.

Above photo: View of Plaza de Francia from Paseo de Las Bóvedas

The plaza contains a monument to the more than 20,000 French workers who died in the late 1800s while attempting to build the French-Panama Canal. There’s also a commemorative plaque honoring Carlos Finley, who discovered the transmission of Yellow Fever by mosquitos. Due to this breakthrough, the number of deaths from this disease during the US-led construction of the Panama Canal was greatly reduced.

Above photos: Monumento al canal de Panama (Monument of the Panama Canal)

Plazoleta Medio Baluarte / The Nuns Bulwark Plaza

The Nuns Bulwark Plaza is a small triangular area adjacent to the Sofitel Legend Hotel that was once occupied by one of the eight bulwarks that served to protect the area. It offers a very pretty view of the Cinta Costera and the Panama City skyline.

Above photo: Plazoleta Medio Baluarte (The Nuns Bulwark)

Where to Eat in Casco Viejo

There is absolutely no shortage of restaurants, cafes, and bars in Casco Viejo. The only challenge will be deciding which ones to dine at! As a matter of convenience, we usually grab our morning coffees and breakfast at our hotels. Lucky for us, we discovered that the best bakeries and cafes in Casco Viejo were at Tiempos in the American Trade Hotel and Vera Cafe at the Sofitel Legend Hotel where we stayed.

Tiempos is a specialty coffee house where you can try Geisha coffee and other regional varieties. If you won’t be traveling to Boquete where Geisha coffee is grown and processed, this is a perfect little spot where you can indulge in this coveted roast.

Above photos: Tiempos at The American Trade Hotel

Vera Cafe has all the flair and finesse of a Parisian patisserie. The beautiful creations in their bakery case are to die for! We ended up feasting on the chocolate and almond croissants with our much-needed morning caffine fix.

Above photos: Cafe Vera at The Sofitel Legend Hotel

For lunch, I do not have a whole lot of personal experience to share. Our first lunch was at Mercado de Mariscos, which is technically in Cinta Costera. Our meal wasn’t spectacular, but I still recommend going because it is so uniquely a Panama City experience.

The Mercado de Mariscos is Panama City’s fish and seafood market. Even if you aren’t in the market for fish or ceviche, this is a great market to walk though to see all of the fresh fresh being brought in from the sea.

Above photos: Mercado de Mariscos

There is a restaurant adjacent to the market on one side and ceviche food stalls on the other side. The stall workers can get a little aggressive trying to reel you into their seating area. But, take your time walking through the stalls and reading the menu offerings before deciding which one you’d like to order from.

Above photos: Lunch at Cevich Loco at the Mercado de Mariscos

For our last full day in Panama, we had made reservations at Fonda Lo Que Hay. However, much to our disappointment, our return flight from Bocas del Toro was delayed and we ended up missing the opportunity to dine at this much-celebrated restaurant featuring some of the best food in Latin America. Please go and tell me all about it!

We had much better luck with our dinner plans:) Within a one-block radius of The American Trade Hotel there are no less than ten dining options. If you are a foodie, this is definitely a great place to stay! Our dinner reservations were at Primitivo, a super intimate steak restaurant located along Plaza Herrera. Our food was delicious and included some complimentary tasting courses, including fried yuca. This side dish looks like steak fries, but they are creamy and healthier. I have since Googled recipe and tracked down the veggie at my local grocery store. I cannot believe I’ve been missing this my whole life!

Primitivo Restaurant, Casco Viejo, Panama City

Above photos: Primitivo Steakhouse Club

Our dinner plans on our final night were at Caleta, located inside the Sofitel Legend Hotel. The restaurant was very pretty and the menu had so many great choices. I think my favorite part was not having to walk farther than the elevator — we were all about convenience at this point!

Above photos: Dinner at Caleta at the Sofitel Legend Hotel

While I was researching our travel plans to Panama City, there were so many other restaurants that looked amazing! I wish we had been able to try a few more. I can definitely recommend the ones we tried. I did notice that Peruvian food is a popular cuisine here, but we were really adamant about trying traditional Panamanian dishes and locally sourced ingredients throughout our travels.

Where to Party in Casco Viejo

Casco Viejo has an incredible night life scene. I’m not a big clubber, but it is awfully fun to head out for some music and drinks while on vacation. This lively neighborhood is known for its many rooftop bars with skyline views where even the locals come to party.

For pre-dinner drinks, I recommend CasaCasco. CasaCasco is located on the top floor of a restored colonial mansion with different restaurants on each floor. We arrived around 6 pm for the gorgeous sunset views. The drink menu is extensive. Later, this place fills up with a seriously fun crowd and the music and dancing begins.

Above photos: CasaCasco

For our last hurrah on our final night in Casco Viejo, we headed up to Ammi, the rooftop club at the Sofitel Legend Hotel. The views were ah-maze-ing! Since the hotel is located right on the water, there are clear views of the Causeway and the glittering skyline of Panama City.

We had so much fun at this place! The music was great — not so loud that you can’t have a conversation tho. In addition to the views out over the water, there are also views down to the hotel courtyard and pool. All-around, it is a super trendy crowd and atmosphere. Come dressed to impress!

Above photos: Ammi at the Sofitel Legend Hotel

Where to Shop in Casco Viejo

In case you haven’t heard, Panama City is home to the second largest shopping mall in the Americas, Albrook Mall. The mall was opened in 2002 in place of what was formerly the Albook Air Force Base. If you are interested in making the best of a rainy day, get ye to Albrook and enjoy the 400+ businesses. It sounds like a ton of fun!

This trip was not a shopping trip for me. The draw of Panama was the spectacular history, outdoor adventures, and jungle critters. So, when it came to shopping, I wanted to pick up a few local handmade treasures and call it a day.

Casco Viejo has souvenir shops on every street and most of them carry similar types of merchandise, including locally crafted textiles, beaded accessories, hats, and beachwear. I ended up purchasing an appliquéd clutch handbag and a beaded headband. My husband picked up a hat because when in Panama… And, we also grabbed some t-shirts for the kids.

Food specialties include coffee and chocolate. We purchased these items in Boquete, but the stores in Panama City stock many of these specialty brands, as well.