Bruges

Walking in the Wanderlust-land of Bruges in Autumn

I am a thousand percent convinced that Bruges, Belgium is the most charming city in Europe. If you have eyes set on visiting, you’ve made a great choice! Far from the likes of busy, sprawling cities, Bruges is a smaller town that isn’t in a hurry to change.

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Bruges isn’t completely off the tourism radar though. It’s storybook cobblestone streets, canals, and UNESCO World Heritage Site status have helped earn its reputation among wanderlusters as a must-see destination. During the day, the main squares are quite busy, restaurants are full, and boutique hotels welcome guests from around the globe.

My husband and I just recently returned from Bruges, and I can’t wait to share all the amazing details of our visit. This post will help you plan your trip, give you a sense of what you can expect, and how much time you will need. If you want to skip ahead to a specific section, here are linked shortcuts:

• Where to stay in Bruges
• Top 15 Historical Landmarks and Attractions in Bruges
• Chocolate shopping in Bruges
• Where to eat in Bruges
• A few more notes on Bruges
• Additional photos

Above photos: Canals of Bruges

Where to stay in Bruges

The center of Bruges has many accommodation options ranging from budget-conscience chain hotels to luxe properties. I narrowed down our choices to the Relais & Chateaux Hotel Heritage and The Pand Hotel, and ended up booking the latter.

We adored this former 18th century carriage house that had been transformed into a boutique hotel with 26 room suites. The quiet little side street where it is located provided easy access to all of the old town attractions on our list, whilst feeling a little removed from the crowds. It was perfect!

Above photos: The Pand Hotel

Above photo: Rooftop views from our room at The Pand Hotel

Bruges Historical Landmarks and Attractions

Bruges packs a lot in to its relatively small area, which is great news if you are on foot and don’t have a long stay planned. It is possible to see the most popular attractions within a short visit. We covered a good chunk on foot, but then decided to rent bicycles to save our feet and to have the following morning for a ride up to the windmills. We rented from Adventure Bike Rental Koffieboontje. No advance reservation is required for individual bicycle rental. You can simply go to the reception desk every day from 9:30 am to 10:00 pm to rent bicycles.

Above photos: Cobblestone streets in Bruges

Here are the top 15 (or so) attractions to see during your visit:

• Rosary Quay
• Blind Donkey Bridge
• De Burg
• City Hall
• Basilica of the Holy Blood
• Market Square
• Belfry
• St. Salvatore’s Cathedral
• Old St. John’s Hospital
• Gruuthusemuseum
• Church of Our Lady
• Boniface Bridge
• Beguinage “Ten Wijngaerde”
• Minnewater Park
• Windmills

Rosary Quay & Canal Boat Tours

Rosary Quay (Rozenhoedkaai) is the number one photography and Instagram-famous spot in Bruges. Picturesque in every season, it’ll definitely stop you dead in your scrolling. Our hotel was just steps away from Rosary Quay, so we passed by this location many times over – and it was never not busy except in the wee hours of the morning.

Rosary Quay got its name from the rosary vendors that used to occupy the small space on the corner. Today, it is simply a pretty view where where the Dijver and Groenerei canals meet and also one of the five locations where you can catch a canal boat tour.

The canal boat tours are a popular tourist attraction, lasting approximately 30 minutes once your boat leaves the dock. There is no need to purchase a ticket in advance. Simply show up at one of the landing stages and buy your ticket on the spot. The boats trips operate on a regular schedule from early March to mid-November. 

Above photo: Rosary Quay 

Blind Donkey Bridge

Blind Donkey Bridge (Blinde-Ezelbrug) is a small bridge between the Fish Market and De Burg. Once you cross over the bridge, the small cobblestone alley leads pedestrians under the arch of the 1536 Civic Griffon (Oude Civiele Griffie) and into the plaza known as De Burg. But, before you get there, take a moment to enjoy the ornate architecture and the anticipation of what lies ahead.

During the day, the bridge and street will be busy with tourists making their way from Rosary Quay to De Burg. However, early risers are likely to be rewarded with unobstructed views and gorgeous reflections off the water.

Above photo: The Civic Griffon at the end of Blind Donkey Bridge

Above photo: View from of the Groenerei canal from Blind Donkey Bridge in the early morning

De Burg

De Burg is one of the main public plazas in the city of Bruges. It is surrounded by the incredible buildings of City Hall, Basilica of the Holy Blood, and Bruges Courthouse. There are a few cafés with outdoor seating along the far side in case you want to sit and admire six centuries architecture or people-watch for a bit.

Above photo: Mid-afternoon in De Burg with the Belfry in the background

Above photo: Early morning in De Burg looking on at City Hall and Bascilica of the Holy Blood

City Hall

Bruges City Hall (Stadhuis) dates to 1376 and was the seat of the government of Bruge for over 600 years. While impressive from the outside, the real showstopper is the Gothic Hall where you can see 20th century murals depicting the history of Bruges. There is also a very nice exhibition of historical artifacts and information about Bruge as a port city.

Above photos: Bruge City Hall

Basilica of the Holy Blood

The Basilica of the Holy Blood (Basiliek van het Heilig Bloed) is a small church located in De Burg consisting of a lower Romanesque chapel and an upper Gothic chapel. The main draw is a relic of the Holy Blood allegedly collected by Joseph of Arimathea and brought from the Holy Land by Thierry of Alsace, Count of Flanders.

Above photo: Basilica of the Holy Blood

Market Square

Market Square (Grote Markt) is the central square of Bruges. Since 958, this plaza has been the historical commercial center of the city and is surrounded by cafes, shops, and tourist sites. Its a pretty busy place! Coachmen with horse drawn carriages await tourists for rides around the old town center. The most notable landmarks are the 12th century Belfry and Provincial Court.

Colorful buildings with stepped gables line the far end of the square and have mostly been converted into shops and cafes. Don’t stop yourself from exploring the side streets and alleys either. Chocolate shops, bakeries, and beer bars are plenty and far less crowded than the ones along the square.

Above photo: Bruge Market Square

Belfry

The iconic landmark of Bruges is the 83-meter high Belfry of Bruges (Belfort van Brugge) bell tower. Dating from the 13th century, it houses 47 bells that play on the quarters of the hour (i.e., every 15 minutes). So, regardless of when you ascend the tower, you are sure to be there to witness the carillon. Of course, the bells play the longest at the top of each hour.

Above photo: The Belfry of Bruges in Market Square

In addition to the the bells and museum pieces, perhaps the best part of visiting the Belfry and climbing the 366 steps (don’t worry, you can take a breather on each level), are the views from the top. The complete street layout, historic landmarks, and surrounding area can be appreciated from above. It is truly breathtaking.

The Belfry is included in the the Musea Brugge Card mentioned previously. Just reserve your time slot:)

Above photo: View from the Belfry of Bruges

St. Salvatore’s Cathedral

St. Salvatore Cathedral (Sint-Salvatorskathedraal) is Bruges’ oldest parish, dating from the 12th century. Think about how old that is. Not only is the cathedral completely amazing, but the collection of paintings, statues, silverware, mausoleums, murals, and Flemish tapestries make it quite an art lovers attraction, as well.

Above photos: St. Salvatore’s Cathedral

This cathedral is best visited during daylight hours so you can optimally appreciate the neo-Gothic stained glass windows. But, you may also want to come back for one of the evening organ concerts. Be sure the check the schedule before your visit to secure tickets for these special events in advance.

Above photos: St. Salvatore’s Cathedral

Old St. John’s Hospital

St. John’s Hospital dates from the 12th century and is one of the oldest and best preserved medieval hospitals in the world. The hospital also houses precious works of art from Hans Memling. Oh, and don’t forget to tack on the pharmacy and herb garden, all included with the Musea Brugge Card.

Above photos: Courtyard of Old St. John’s Hospital

Gruuthusemuseum

Probably my favorite museum in all of Bruges, and certainly the one in which I spent the most time, was Gruuthusemuseum. Located adjacent to the Church of our Lady in the former house of Louis de Gruuthuse, this museum showcases applied arts in Bruges.

The Gruuthusemuseum is included in the the Musea Brugge Card. Reserve your time slot back-to-back with your entrance to Church of our Lady, which is right next door!

Above photos: Gruuthusemuseum

Multiple floors with rooms that flow one into the next, have been curated with objects and art that tell the story of Bruges. One of the more interesting features is a 15th-century prayer chapel that connects the palace and the Church of Our Lady,

Above photos: Gruuthusemuseum

Whatever you do, don’t miss the set of doors leading out to the balcony and this view (below) of the Boniface Bridge. It was drizzling rain that morning so very few people were out and about. The bridge was empty and the canal was full of freshly fallen autumn leaves. From this balcony, you can also see the wonderful gothic and baroque architectural details of Church of Our Lady. The flying buttresses are spectacular! I could have just sat here for hours. The view was that perfect.

Above photos: Views from the Gruuthusemuseum balcony

Church of Our Lady

The Church of Our Lady is a beautiful Catholic church dating from the 13th century. The 115.6-meter-high tower is the tallest structure in the city and the second tallest brickwork tower in the world.

Above photos: Church of Our Lady

This gorgeous church is a complete treasure trove of art, the biggest draw being a marble sculpture of the Madonna and Child by Michelangelo, The piece was originally meant for the cathedral in Sienna, Italy, but was purchased from the sculptor and sent to Bruges. While the church is free to enter, there is a small fee (waived for the Musea Brugge Card holders) to enter the museum area, which includes the Madonna and Child sculpture.

Above photo: Madonna and Child by Michelangelo

I also thought the tombs of Charles the Bold and his daughter, Mary of Burgandy, were very moving. The details of the effigies and tombs are so personal.

Above photo: Effigy of Mary of Burgandy (left)

Boniface Bridge

There are so many bridges throughout Bruges spanning over the canals, but Boniface Bridge (Bonifaciusbrug) is probably the most scenic and photographed. This little stone bridge is actually relatively new compared to the others, but it is so perfectly romantic.

The bridge is located between Gruuthusemuseum and Church of Our Lady and surrounded by half-timbered houses in the most quaint and charming setting. Unless you are out early or have the patience to wait for a break in foot traffic, chances are you will not be alone here though.

Above photos: View from Boniface Bridge

Beguinage “Ten Wijngaerde”

Ten Wijngaerde is a preserved benguinage dating from the 13th century. It is comprised of a large tree-shaded courtyard surrounded by white townhouses and a 17th century church. The houses were built for emancipated women who led pious and celibate lives and who spent their days doing good works for the community.

The houses have been continuously inhabited, but today the residents are nuns from the Order of Saint Benedict and single women. It is still a place of peace and solitude. While visitors may come and go freely, respectfulness of the tranquility and privacy of the residents is requested.

Above photos: Beguinage Ten Wijngaerde

The beautiful Beguinage Bridge connects Wijngaardplein, a small park where swans gather, to the entrance to the beguinage. After you’ve strolled through the area, there is another bridge on the opposite side that can take you back over the canal to Minnewater Park, while passing by a lovely brick guard house called Sashuis. It sits over the lock by the canalized lake Minnewater and is completely picturesque. 

Above photos: Beguinage Bridge

Above photo: Sashuis

Minnewater Park

We didn’t spend a lot of time at Minnewater Park, but it was ever so wonderful to lay eyes on it. This tranquil public space incorporates a small lake, sometimes referred to as the Lake of Love due to its uber romantic setting. Weeping willow trees, swans, castle ruins, and myths of water nymphs make it a great spot for the hopelessly romantic to picnic and take in the views.

Above photo: Minnewater Park

Windmills

We spent our final morning in Bruges riding our rented bikes through the Sint-Anna Quarter and up to the windmills. It took about 15 minutes to get from our hotel up to the first mill.

There are four windmills that are all within walking/biking distance from each other. We started at the Bonne-Chièremolen followed by the Sint-Janshuismolen, Windmolen De Nieuwe Papegaai, and ended at the Koeleweimolen. We then rode back on Potterierei which follows the Langerlei canal back to the center of Bruges.

Above photos: Windmills in Bruges

The views along the Langerlei canal were beautiful. I loved seeing the Flemish architecture and the lovely Jan van Eyckplein, a small square named after the Flemish Primitive painter Jan van Eyck. While all of Bruges is a tourist magnet, this area was a little less busy. We mostly saw locals going about their regular lives, kids headed to school, etc.

Above photos: Views along the Langerlei canal

Above photo: Jan van Eyckplein

Because we got up early for this activity, we had most of the places along our route entirely to ourselves, including our final stop back at De Berg. We almost didn’t recognize it at first because the day before it had been packed with people. It was so neat to experience it totally void of the crowds.

Chocolate shopping in Bruges

It is impossible to visit Bruges and not notice the number of chocolate shops. There are over 70! Since the mid-1600’s, chocolate has been a bit of a thing here. It started out as an indulgence among high society, but eventually became popular and accessible to all classes thanks to the cacao imports from the Belgian Congo in the early 1900’s.

Family recipes passed from generation to generation, the best ingredients, and the pursuit of the perfect praline have made Belgium Chocolate one of its most sought after exports. I tried my best to sample as many praline flavors as possible while wandering through Bruges. And, of course, I stuffed my suitcase with boxed assortments to take home.

Above photos: Chocolate shops in Bruges decorated for Autumn

So, which shops are the best? Chocolate can be a bit subjective, but my favorite chocolate was from The Chocolate Line. This bean-to-bar operation manufactures all of its chocolate from cacao they import themselves. I also really enjoyed the pralines from The Chocolate Crown, located near Rosary Quay. Chocolatier Duman was another favorite, but more so for their super charming little shop.

Above photos: The Chocolate Line (left) and The Chocolate Crown (right)

You can make a day out of visiting all the chocolate shops, munching on samples as you go. But, we just incorporated stops in between museums and historical attractions. If you are interested in expert guidance, there are also tours, tastings, and workshops available.

Above photos: Chocolatier Dumon

Where to eat in Bruges

Belgium is known for fries, waffles, mussels, chocolate, and beer. There isn’t much of a well-rounded meal in those options. However, Belgian food takes queues from other regions and serves up some pretty good German dishes, Italian, and French. So, you won’t be left without options and you certainly won’t starve. We tried the local specialties during our short visit, as well as an exquisite meal at the Michelin-starred, farm-to-table Restaurant Goesepitte 43.

Chez Albert

I never really thought of waffles as street food that could be ordered from a take-away window, but that all changed with Chez Albert. This convenient little spot off of De Berg on Breidelstraat was worth the queue wait. I ordered a fully-loaded waffle and am not ashamed to admit I ate the whole thing. Delicious!

Chez Albert is located at Breidelstraat 16, 8000 Brugge, Belgium

Above photo: Waffels from Chez Albert

Restaurant Goesepitte 43

Goesepitte 43 is a French-modern restaurant located on a very unassuming side street behind St. Salvatore’s Cathedral. You’d never know it was there if you weren’t told. The dishes were really creative and the presentation was beautiful. It was comfortable, quiet, and the service was great. After eating so much junk food all day, I was really excited to have vegetables on my plate! We thoroughly enjoyed everything, including the quirky jungle-like decor.

Restaurant Goesepitte 43 is located at Goezeputstraat 43, 8000 Brugge, Belgium

Above photos: Restaurant Goesepitte 43

Le Pain Quotidien

En route back from our morning bicycle ride, we stopped over at Simon Stevinplein, a small square dedicated to the famous former resident of Bruges, for breakfast at Le Pain Quotidien. It was one of the few places open early and had tables set-up outside where we could breathe fresh air while enjoying our coffee and breakfast. Their menu includes classic dishes as well as seasonal specialties. The breads were amazing!

Le Pain Quotidien is located at Simon Stevinplein 15, 8000 Brugge, Belgium

Above photos: Breakfast at Le Pain Quotidien

A few more notes on Bruges

When is the best time of year to visit Bruges?

Every season has its merits just like wherever it is you call home. As long as you pack the right clothes, there really isn’t a bad time to go. We chose the autumn shoulder season for a few reasons. (1) Fewer crowds than the summer months. It was still busy though. (2) Better airfare and hotel rates. I’m past having to work around kids’ school schedules, so I am fortunate to be able to take advantage of that flexibility. (3) We don’t really get autumn in Texas (it’s just gets 10 – 15 degrees cooler), so I like to travel somewhere I can get my fall fix.

Another great time to go would be during the Christmas season. I’ve heard the Christmas Markets in Belgium, and especially Bruges, are off-the-charts charming.

How much time is needed to see everything?

If you are organized and have your sites planned, you can really pack quite a bit into 1 – 2 days. A lot of tourists come to Bruges as a day trip. I wanted more than a cursory swipe at this dreamy place, so we decided to stay overnight. Another advantage of staying the night is that the crowds thin immensely in the evening and early morning. So, you have a chance to see things without standing shoulder-to-shoulder with a bunch of strangers.

If you prefer to linger in museums, people watch from outdoor cafes, or read in the parks, then perhaps a longer visit would be appropriate. Of all the places my husband and I visited during this trip to Europe, we both decided Bruges was our favorite. I would go back in a blink.

Is a rental car needed?

Absolutely not. We arrived by rail and took an Uber from the train station to the hotel. The rest of the time we were on foot or on bikes. The historical center of Bruges is quite compact and easy to navigate. If you have mobility concerns, there are taxis available.

Additional photos

Above photos: Random snippets of sites around Bruges

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