Basel

A Discovery of Art, Culture, and History in Basel, Switzerland

The artsy city of Basel, Switzerland is a riverside gem and trifecta of French, German, and Swiss culture. It’s museum-centric and historical core is surrounded by modern architecture and youthful energy making it a rich and exciting place to visit. Although it is the third most populous city in Switzerland, it hardly feels like a daunting metropolis. On the contrary, Basel is a place to get lost meandering the cobblestone streets of Old Town or immersed in an antique print shop.

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While Basel is a worthy destination in its own right, it is also a great starting and/or ending point for an itinerary in France, Germany, or Switzerland due to is location near the meeting point of these three countries and the Basel-Mulhouse International Airport that they share. Such was the case for my husband and I as we were wrapping up a full week exploring central and western Switzerland.

Above photo: The Rhine River in Basel, Switzerland

I am glad we reserved a full day and overnight stay in Basel, instead of it just being our exit gateway back to the US. We took it slow. Maybe it was because we were tuckered out from our long week, or maybe it was because we were drawn into so many unexpected courtyards, alleys, and shops and simply decided to not feel rushed about it.

Basel is quite literally packed with historical landmarks, museums, and things to do. But, you don’t need to hit every single one in order to get the most out of a visit. In fact, you’ll soak up more of the vibe here by narrowing down a list of must-see’s and allowing time to enjoy them. At least, that’s my advice;)

In this post, I will re-cap our autumn visit and hopefully provide some inspiration for this highly underrated and alluring city.

• Where to stay in Basel
• Things to see & do
• Where to eat
• Travel tips & resources

Where to stay in Basel

Given Basel’s extensive public transportation network of electric street trams, it is possible to stay on either the left or right bank of the Rhine River without feeling stuck or having to walk too far. Hotels in Old Town are going to have the benefit of close proximity to the most popular landmarks and the train station. However, Basel’s Old Town is a pedestrianized zone, which may be a consideration if you have a car and don’t want the hassle of figuring out where to park. In that case, Kleinbasel might be a better choice.

We stayed in Kleinbasel just a block or two away from the Middle Bridge at Volkshaus Basel. I really loved the boutique-y, designer-y vibe of this property — and the atmospheric courtyard that serves as an extension of the Brasserie when the weather is fine. Plus, we were never more than a 15-minute walk from anything we wanted to see and only ended up riding the tram from the train station when we first arrived.

Above photos: Volkshaus Basel

Things to see & do

• Rhine River Ferries
• Palatinate (Pfalz) Viewing Platform
• Minster Cathedral Square (Münsterplatz) & Pisoni Fountain
• Basel Cathedral (Basler Münster)
• Offene Kirche Elisabethen
• Tinguely Brunnen
• Spalentor
• Basel City Hall (Rathaus) & Marketplace (Marktplatz)
• Old Town Shopping
• Gerbergässlein Graffiti
• Mittlere Brücke

Rhine River Ferries

Shortly after arriving in Basel and dropping our luggage off at our hotel, we walked over to the shore of the Rhine River to catch the Münster Ferry “LEU”, one of the four ferries that link Grossbasel (Old Town on the left bank) to Kleinbasel (the right bank). The non-motorized boats are tethered by cable wire and driven purely by the current of the Rhine itself, known as a reactive cable ferry.

Above photos: Rhine Riverfront Promenade, Kleinbasel

The Münster Ferry has been in operation since 1877, making it a really interesting old world form of transportation to experience. The crossings occur continuously throughout the day between the hours of 9:00 am until 7:00 pm and cost 1.60 CHF for adults.

The Münster Ferry is located between the Wettsteinbrücke and Mittlere Brücke bridges and has the best view of the Basel Cathedral as you cross over to Grossbasel. Upon arriving, there are some stairs to conquer, which may be something to consider if you are traveling with a stroller or wheelchair.

Above photo: Münster Ferry

Palatinate (Pfalz) Viewing Platform

At the top of the ferry jetty stairs, we were rewarded with beautiful views from the Pfalz Viewing Platform. If you miss the ferry experience, it is still worth your while to find the Pfalz platform behind the cathedral cloisters. It offers fantastic views over the Old Town and as far as the Border Triangle.

Above photo: View of Kleinbasel from the Pfalz Viewing Platform

Minster Cathedral Square (Münsterplatz) & Pisoni Fountain

In front of the Basel Cathedral is a large, public square known as the Minster Cathedral Square (Münsterplatz in German). During the holidays, the square is transformed into a dazzling Christmas market. Other times of the year it is the location for fairs and cultural events. However, while we were there it was just a beautiful, wide open space. There are many, many historic buildings, museums, and cafes surrounding the square. We ended up spending a bit of time here before and after our visit to the cathedral.

Above photo: Minster Cathedral Square

The small park next to the cathedral is home to the Pisoni Fountain and a grove of gorgeous trees that were starting their autumn color show. The fountain dates to 1784, but it has been the location of a well and/or fountain in some shape or form since 1266.

Above photos: Pisoni Fountain Park

Basel Cathedral (Basler Münster)

The most famous and recognizable landmark in Basel is the Basel Cathedral. This stunning church was built as a Catholic cathedral between the years 1019 and 1500. It later converted to a Reformed Protestant church. It stands out due its red sandstone walls, twin towers, and striking roof tiles – and of course because it is massive.

Above photos: Basel Cathedral

Because it is situated on a hill above the Rhine River and tightly snugged in between many other buildings surrounding Minster Cathedral Square, it was hard to get a good photo. Really the best place to get a great shot that shows off the grandeur of the architecture is from across the Rhine River or from one of the towers, which can be ascended by anyone willing to take-on the 250 steps to the top.

Above photo: Basel Cathedral from across the Rhine River

Inside, the cathedral is a combination of Gothic and Romanesque architecture. It isn’t as elaborate as other major European cathedrals, but the stained glass windows are something to behold. The tomb of Erasmus of Rotterdam, a Dutch theologian regarded as one of the greatest Renaissance thinkers, is located on the left side of the nave.

Above photos: Basel Cathedral 

Don’t miss the crypt. The painted ceilings and medieval stone foundations are wonderfully intriguing and really help you grasp the cathedral’s deep, long history, along with the graves dating back to 1000 AD.

Above photo: Basel Cathedral Crypt

Offene Kirche Elisabethen

There are so many beautiful, historical churches in Basel. But, because of our limited time, we decided to just visit one other besides the Basel Cathedral – Offene Kirche Elisabethen. It is a 19th century church (so, relatively new) and the first to be built following the reformation. The 236-foot bell tower and spire will help you find it in the urban theater district.

Above photos: Theater District

We stopped here because we heard there were Wednesday lunchtime concerts. There are:) If you aren’t so lucky to be in Basel on a Wednesday, check out the events calendar for other activities such as prayer, meditation, open singing, and even charity discos.

Above photos: Offene Kirche Elisabethen

Tinguely Fountain (Tinguely Brunnen)

Jean Tinguely was a Swiss artist and sculptor known for his kinetic art creations. There is an entire museum in Basel that is dedicated to his works, appropriately named The Tinguely Museum. Whether or not you make it over to the museum, the Tinguely Fountain is a must-see.

The fountain is a combination of ten metal sculptures and whimsical waterworks built on the site of the old city theatre. It is a very playful scene that kids of all ages can appreciate. It is a popular hang-out spot on bright, sunny days. Or, it can just be a quick pass-by as you walk toward the heart of Old Town.

Above photos: Tinguely Fountain (top and left); ;View through a dragonfly eye at Tinguely Fountain (right)

Spalentor

The Gate of Spalen (Spalentor) is a medieval city gate that once formed part of the city fortifications dating from the 15th century. The walls, which were demolished in the 19th century, were built for defensive purposes along with around 40 towers and six gates.

The Spalentor is one of three remaining gates. Tradesmen would have passed through here with commercial goods and provisions from Alsace. It is possible to find your way around to all of the remaining gates and wall ruins, but the Spalentor is regarded as the most beautiful. I must say, the flower-and-diamond-patterned tile roof was extraordinary!

We approached the gate from the Old Town side, which is the back side with the clock. The other side facing Schönbeinstrasse, has more decoration and statues since it was the entrance coming into Basel.

Above photo: Spalentor facing Old Town

Above photos: Spalentor entrance facing Schönbeinstrasse

Basel City Hall (Rathaus) & Marketplace (Marktplatz)

The 500-year old building that houses the seat of Basel’s government is located in Marktplatz in the heart of Old Town. The Cantonal Parliament as well as the Cantonal Government of the canton of Basel-Stadt actively use the building for their offices and meetings.

Above photos: Basel City Hall

While parts of the building are closed to the general public, it is possible to visit the courtyard behind the red sandstone facade and three iconic arched entrances. The walls are colorfully painted with various scenes from history and the rule of law. Guided tours are also available on Saturdays.

Above photos: Basel City Hall Courtyard

Since City Hall is located on Marktplatz, it will obviously be part of the package. Marktplatz is a very busy square, often filled with market stalls and used for public gatherings. There are also trams passing through practically non-stop. Not to worry, the activity level de-escalates as soon as you cross over and into the side streets of Old Town.

Above photo: Marktplatz

Old Town Shopping

Probably my favorite part of the day was strolling through the streets of Old Town, walking in-and-out of little boutiques, antique art shops, cafes, and hidden courtyards. It was particularly fun because Basel is not laid out in a typical city street grid. Streets and cobblestone alleys branch off every which way leading to hidden gems and surprising discoveries.

Above photos: Old Town

Since I didn’t do much shopping earlier during our grand Swiss tour, I was looking for something in Basel to take home with me. So when I discovered Buchantiquariat Libelle mit H&B, an art and antique bookshop, I was determined to not leave empty handed. The signed and numbered art print that I walked away with presented a little bit of a challenge to get back home without any damage — but it is now framed and hanging on the wall. Success!

Above photos: Andreasplatz

Gerbergässlein Graffiti

One thing I was absolutely not expecting in Basel was a huge wall of rock & roll graffiti. An alleyway off Gerbergässlein features a mural of world-famous musicians, commissioned by the L’Unique bar across the street. The mural is constantly changing with new additions and it is impossible to not recognize some of your own favorites.

Above photos: Gerbergässlein Graffiti Rock Musician Mural

Middle Bridge (Mittlere Brücke)

The Middle Bridge is a historic bridge in Basel crossing the Rhine River. Although the current Middle Bridge was erected in 1905, it is on the same site as the original bridge which dates to 1226. It was a big deal back then because the crossing of the Rhine was essential for international trade.

Above photo: Middle Bridge looking towards Grossbasel

In the middle of the bridge is a copy of the old bridge chapel, Käppelijoch, where convicted criminals were sentenced to death during the Middle Ages. Creepy, but a thankful reminder that we aren’t living during those times.

Above photos: Käppelijoch (left); Middle Bridge looking towards Kleinbasel (right)

Where to eat

I did a little restaurant research before our visit to Basel, but we threw our plans out the window when we came to terms with the fact that we were just too tired to do anything fancy. We also ran out of clothes. During our entire week in Switzerland, the temperatures were warmer than we had expected. So, by the end of the trip our lightweight clothes were dirty and we ended up buying t-shirts at a souvenir shop to make it through. So, our ultra casual attire also held us back from the likes of Roter Bären — although it looks amazing!

Museum Bistro Rollerhof

Like I was saying, the weather was amazing and we decided to eat al fresco all day long. Our first lunch as at a museum cafe on Minster Cathedral Square called Museum Bistro Rollerhof. Our food was delicious, service was great, and we had the best views of the square while we sipped on our cold drinks.

Above photos: Museum Bistro Rollerhof

Afterwards, we ducked into the courtyard in front of the Museum of Cultures. The museum was covered in vines that had started to change colors. So pretty!

Above photo: Museum of Cultures

Walliser Kanne

Our dinner in Basel was our last dinner in Switzerland before our flights back home and I had yet to have fondue, which was simply imperative. We found a restaurant famous for its cheese fondue, Walliser Kanne. This traditional Swiss restaurant is located on the Gerbergasse in a building that looks seriously old. It was a perfect ending to our day in Basel and our week-long Swiss adventure.

Above photos: Walliser Kanne

Travel tips & resources

Thank you for reading my post! Please feel free to add friendly comments or questions below!

If you are traveling in the fall, like we were, please check out my Europe Fall Packing Guide here.