Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Visiting the Historic Sights and Christmas Market in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

The Christmas Market in the medieval town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany, is nothing short of enchanting. It was my favorite market during a week-long visit in Bavaria during the Advent Season, and a more recent visit confirmed all those feelings. It isn’t the easiest to get to, but you will be duly rewarded for making the effort.

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Above photos: Welcome to Rothenburg ob der Tauber; Gallows Gate (center)

Whether you are traveling to Rothenburg for the Christmas Market or during another time of the year, the town is full of well-preserved medieval buildings, Gothic architecture, half-timbered houses, and everything you associate with a picturesque German village. With that in mind, be sure to set some time aside to enjoy the many popular attractions in addition to your Christmas Market wanderings.

• Top things to see in Rothenburg ob der Tauber
• The Rothenburg Christmas Market
• Walking Route
• Other Tips & Information

Top things to see in Rothenburg ob der Tauber

We took the train from Nuremberg to Rothenburg ob der Tauber as a day trip. The train ride is roughly 1 hour 45 minutes, including a couple transfers. We arrived just before lunch, leaving us the entire afternoon and evening to explore the market and wander the streets of this fairy tale village.

The town itself is amazing to explore with its cobblestone streets, quaint little cafes, and historic buildings. The locals are warm and friendly (and most spoke English, which was really nice, too). The town is best explored on foot. Whether you arrive by train or car, you won’t need any ground transportation once you enter one of Rothenburg’s historical city gates.

The top things that you’ll want to catch a glimpse of include:

• Plönlein
• Defensive Walls, Gates, & Towers
• Aussichtspunkt an der Eich
• Schneeball
• St. John’s Church
• Herngasse
• Castle Gate & Garden
• St. James Church
• Marketplatz
• Käthe Wohlfahrt Store
• Museums

Top things to see in Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Plönlein

Without question, Plönlein is the most photographed and recognizable landmark in Rothenburg. Tourist groups flock here en masse to see this picturesque area featuring a fountain and a yellow timber-frame house flanked by the 14th-century Kobolzell Gate and the higher Siebers Tower, which also mark the entrance of the Hospital District (Spital Quarter). If it makes you feel like you are stepping into a fairy tale, you’re not alone. The site has been used as the inspiration for Pinocchio and copied by architects for various other entertainment projects.

The trek back up the hill can be made more enjoyable by stopping at the shops and bakeries along the way:) Schmiedgasse is lined with boutiques, hotels, and bakeries that are marked with cast iron signs hanging over the entrances. The highly decorative designs are artistic as much as they are informative. Back in the day, when not everyone was able to read and write, symbols and pictures were used instead of words.

Above photos:

Defensive Walls, Gates, & Towers

Rothenburg ob der Tauber is one of only three villages in Germany with completely intact medieval city walls. The walls are walkable and are one of the best free things to do year-round. There are multiple entry & exit points in case you do not want to walk the entire 2.5-mile wall circuit, known as the “Tower Trail” (Turmweg). I started at the Spirtal Gate (Spitaltor) and made my way up to Kobolzell Tower (Kobolzeller Turm).

There are 42 towers and 6 main gates in total. You don’t necessarily have to walk the defensive walls to access each of the towers. If you want to cut across town in the interest of time, but still see the Gallows Gate (Galgentor), for example, you can. Chances are, you will enter the village through one of the gates and see others as you wander around.

Above photos: Tower Trail

The Gallows Gate (Würzburger Tor), is one of five pass-through gates in Rothenburg. It dates to the 14th-century and got its name because the gallows, i.e., the place of execution by hanging, was directly in front of the gate. Grisly, but true.

The focal point at the end of Galganasse is the 108-foot-tall White Tower, sometimes called the Gallows Arch. It is part of the old inner city fortifications and the entrance to the former Jewish quarter of the city. Directly in front of the tower are two other landmarks, the Jewish Dance House and the Rabbi Meir Garden. Together, they form a memorial where you can learn more about Jewish life during the Middle Ages.

Above photos: White Tower

Aussichtspunkt an der Eich

The Viewpoint at the Oak (Aussichtspunkt an er Eich) is arguably one of the best views in Rothenburg. We found this spot entirely by happenstance. It is a bit of a hidden gem in the heart of the city, offering a quiet spot with views over the valley and Tauber River below. The best way to find this spot is to walk up the hill from Plönlein and then turn left down the side street just past the Hotel Goldener Hirsch. The panoramic views will stop you in your tracks.

Above photos: Viewpoint at the Oak

Schneeball Bakeries on Schmiedgasse

In case you haven’t heard, schneeballs are the culinary treat of Rothenburg. Schneeball translates to snowball. The base of the dessert is a shortcut pastry that is deep-fried and then covered in sugar, chocolate, nuts, and/or other toppings. There are a few bakeries on Schmiedgasse where you can pick up a package to-go, but ideally you’ll have time to order a few different flavors and sit at a table.

We first spotted them in a window at the Friedel Bäckerei on our walk back from Plönlein and HAD to try. On my return visit last year, I opted for BrotHaus Zuckerbäckerei. They are all delicious – and after that arduous walk back up the hill, you certainly deserve one!

• Bäckerei Striffler: u. Schmiedgasse 1 | Website
• BrotHaus Zuckerbäckerei: Ob. Schmiedgasse 10 | Website
• Diller Schneeballenträume: Ob. Schmiedgasse 7 | Website
• Café Walter Friedel: Markt 8 | Website

Above photos: Schneeballs

St. John’s Church, Fountain, and Tower

St. John’s Fountain (Johannisbrunnen) and St. John’s Tower (Johannisturm) flank St. John’s Catholic Church (St. Johannis), the only active parish in the predominantly Protestant town. You’ll pass the fountain as you walk on Schmiedgasse.

Above photo: St. John’s Fountain

Hidden Gems on Herngasse

Without even trying, most people find their way to Herngasse, the south perimeter of Marketplatz. Here you will find the Christmas Museum and the Käthe Wohlfahrt Store. However, there are a couple of hidden gems if you keep going. First, in plain view is the Herrnbrunnen, a Late Renaissance fountain where fraudulent bankers were punished. It is always decorated for Christmas and is really pretty.

Just beyond the fountain is the Franciscan Church (Franziskanerkirche), a Gothic Evangelical church consecrated in 1309. It is free to enter, and if you’re lucky, you might even be there for the children’s concert. After you’ve explored the inside, don’t miss the Montessori Garden. There is a precious nativity scene set up, and you’ll likely have the place to yourself. This area is a great place for a “breather” from the bustle of congested Schmiedgasse and Marketplatz.

Above photos: Hernbrunnen (left); Montessori Garden (center and right)

Castle Gate & Garden

It is easy to miss the Castle Gate if you don’t know it’s there, but the area is one of the best places to see in Rothenburg, and it isn’t overrun by tourists. Just to clarify, there is no longer a castle in Rothenburg. But you will find the Castle Gate, some monuments, and a small chapel in a beautiful park-like setting.

Castle Gate was built around 1460 and is the westernmost gate complex and the tallest gate tower. You can walk through it, but not up inside it. Hopefully, it won’t be shrouded in fog like it was when I was there.

Above photos: Castle Gate

The Memorial St. Blasius Chapel was originally part of the castle complex. It dates to the 12th century, but was badly damaged by an earthquake a century later. It was then reconstructed and converted into a chapel in honor of St. Blasius. Today, it is used as a memorial to the fallen soldiers of WWI & WWII.

Above photos: Memorial St. Blasius Chapel in Castel Garden

Just outside the Castle Gate (near the restrooms), there is an arch that leads to a beautiful trail that winds through a natural area and down to the Tauber River valley. You’ll find covered bridges, fairytale cottages, and other remnants of the past. It was so foggy when I was there that I didn’t get to see as much, but that also made it more mysterious and enchanting.

Above photos: Castle Garden

St. James Church

St. James Church (St. Jakobskirche) is a Gothic-style church dating to the 14th century. It was originally built as a Roman Catholic Church, but converted to a Lutheran Church in the 16th century. Key highlights are the beautiful, 55-foot-high stained glass windows and the Holy Blood Altar by Tilman Riemenschneider.

There is a €3.50 visiting fee to visit the church outside of regular services. If you don’t want to give up your Euros, you can stand at the very back of the church for free. You may be able to sit for a concert of the impressive Rieger organ. They typically take place on Fridays and Saturdays during the Advent season. | Concerts and Events |

Above photos: St. James Church

Marketplatz

Marketplatz is the town’s main public square surrounded by historic buildings and landmarks. It is used for summer concerts and the winter Christmas Market (more on that in a minute). Here you will also find St. George’s Fountain, Georgsbrunnen, which was used as a drinking fountain for tradesmen.

On the north side of the square, the Rothenburg Tourism Service occupies the former Council Drinking Hall. I guess that’s one way to solve political differences. The building features a glockenspiel clock tower with doors that open on the hour to reenact the legend of the heroic mayor who saved his town by drinking a gallon of wine (lol).

The main building in Marketplatz is Town Hall. The front facade of the building was rebuilt in the 16th-century after a fire destroyed the original. Other parts of the original Gothic building are still standing today. The different sides of the structure are adjoined by a central atrium. For an aerial view of the town, you can climb the 60-meter tower, accessible from the main entrance.

During the Christmas Market season, the windows on the second floor of Town Hall are decorated by local school classes and youth groups to create an Advent calendar. Don’t forget to look up!

Above photos: Rothenburg Tourism Office (center); Town Hall (left and right)

Käthe Wohlfahrt Store

Just a few steps from Marketplatz is the Käthe Wohlfahrt store. Inside, it is an explosion of every kind of Christmas ornament and decoration you can imagine, organized by theme. There was a queue to get in the store and a strict walking-flow to help move people through. It is easy to get lost – or to lose track of the person you came in with – but great fun!

Above photos: Kathe Wohlfhart Store

Museums

If you are just in Rothenburg for the day – or if your focus is on the Christmas Market – you may not have time to squeeze in a museum visit. But no guide to the city would be complete without mentioning a few of the standout museums in the area.

First, the Christmas Museum (Deutsches Weihnachtsmuseum), located above the Käthe Wohlfahrt store, is a year-round exhibit of historical Christmas decorations and traditions from 1870 to 1950. There is a wide variety of things to see such as greeting card artwork, nativity scenes, traditional German wooden crafts, and themed Christmas trees. Unless you are a die hard fan of all things Christmas, I would suggest browsing the actual store over visiting the museum.

Another interesting collection is the Medieval Crime Museum located in the city center. It’s interesting, but gruesome. The exhibit includes various pieces from past criminal cases, instruments of torture, and drawings related to the judicial system. It’ll make you glad you didn’t live back then. Yikes.

Finally, the Rothenburg Museum provides wonderful insight into the history of the city, WWII events, and reconstruction. This is the best place to come to learn more about how Rothenburg’s picturesque charm was created and preserved over the centuries. There is also a fascinating exhibit of pistols and other weapons. The museum has odd operating hours, so it is best to check the website while making your plans. | Website |

The Rothenburg ob der Tauber Christmas Market

The Rothenburg ob der Tauber Christmas Market stalls are located between Marketplatz, Grüner Markt and St. James Church, as well as in the Atrium at Town Hall. The market features 60+ stalls, although it felt much bigger. The market stalls sprawled down side streets, alleys, and alcoves. Where there wasn’t a stall, there was an adorable shop or a welcoming door front. Brass bands and other entertainers from the Rothenburg region perform daily on the stage at Grüner Markt. The mood is so incredibly festive!

Above photos: Rothenburg ob der Tauber Christmas Market

After the sun disappears, the Christmas Market has a completely different ambiance. We were glad that we had stayed after dark to experience the Christmas magic at night and a few light flurries. If you find yourself in Rothenburg in the evening hours – or if you are staying overnight – I wholeheartedly recommend taking the Night Watchman Tour. This hilarious and informative 1-hour tour is led by Hans Georg Baumgartner, who famously retells stories from the town’s history. Monday/Tuesday and Friday/Saturday at 8:00 p.m. in English. No reservation needed – just be at the market square!

Above photos: Rothenburg ob der Tauber Christmas Tree in Marketplatz (left); Town Hall Advent Windows (right)

Walking Route

To economize your time and see as much as possible, I recommend planning your walking route. Where you start will depend on where you park. Most visitors arrive by train, in which case you enter through the Gallows Gate or the Röderbastei. Having done both on different visits, I would recommend heading in the direction of the Röderbastei and following the residential Wenggasse to Plönlein. Alternatively, you can walk the east city walls and see the Hohenner Tower, Sulfur Tower, and exit at Faulturm.

You can continue along the walls or explore Plönlein and enjoy walking down Spitalgasse. You can enter (or re-enter) the walls at the Spital Gate. I exited at the Kobolzell Tower so I could walk up Schmiedgasse and visit the shops and bakeries.

Once you are back in the town center, you can visit the attractions in/near Marketplatz, St. James Church, Castle Gate, and the northern walls (great views!). When you are ready to head back to the train station, take Galgengasse to see more great shops and historical fortifications.

Below is my Google Maps walking map, in case you’d like to use it to jump start your own planning. Google Maps does not consider the walls to be an available walking path. So, instead of walking on the street, you’ll can go up into the tower and follow the Tower Trail.

| Google Maps Rothenburg ob der Tauber Walking Route |

More Tips & Info

Tours

There is so much more to see and do in Rothenburg. If you have a longer stay planned, consider a walking tour or a private guide to show you around!

Thank you for reading my post! Please feel free to add friendly comments or questions below!